Lanzar 1 Channel Car Audio Amplifier, 3000 Watt, Monoblock, 2 Ohm, MOSFET, Nickel Plated RCA Input, Bass Boost Circuit, Electronic Crossover Network, Power Protection LEDs - HTG157

Bought it at a sale price, around 80$ on amazon... put it on a RE MT 15" 10,000 watt burp sub.. didn't even move...thought it was some crap.. had a legacy 5,000 watt at 2ohms that burnt, so this was just as cheap as a replacement or so i thought... i put an ssl 2400 watt 15 in the same box at 2 ohm on this lanzar. it ran 20 mins at 3/4 gain on a crossover and smoked that sub... the RE MT at 2ohms would send it into protect in 2 mins max... i zip-tied two 12 volt fans on the amp-never again turned off. it's been great ever since.. the insides look good as well, similar to mtx, and fosgate insides.... not a beast by any means but has great rms once cooled properly at 2 ohms.

I replaced a 500w kenwood amp with this. I am powering 2 jl subs rated at 600 watts at a 2 ohm load. At 2 ohms this amp claims to put out 1500w rms. Honestly i think that is unrealistic. But it blows the kenwood amp out of the water. Crisp sound very clear and loud. At first it had nothing after i hooked it up. The gain knob if turned all the way down is turned off. So you have to play with the settings. Also you need a very solid ground i am using 4 gauge wire i had to sand down the connectors on the wires to make it fit but if you have a crappy ground you will get alot of heat. I have not torture tested it but so far for the money im really happy. Do not expect this to power something that is rated at 1500w but its a great amp for the money. I think this amp puts out 700-800 watts.

So I just hooked up this amp to 2 kicker cvr 12's and I can only turn the gain on half way. Any more than that and it cuts off. I have the bass boost on 6 because 12 is to much. I tuned it in as best as I could so it would not hit protect mood. Subs hit pretty good but don't even come close to pushing them to there max. I had a 4000 watt planet audio that was stolen that worked perfect. It would make them hit hard enough to tickle your throat and rattle your ears. It would shake my rear view mirror so hard you couldn't use it. They broke the metal holder for my radar scanner. Son know what my speakers can do. And I'm on a scale of one to ten. Ten being pleased and 1 horrible displeased. I'm a 1. A true 3000 watt amp which should be around 1500 rms, should easily push my 800 to 850 rms speakers. Not to mention I listened to 3 songs and the amp was to hot to even touch. I'm talking stupid hot. So if your trying to push 800 or more rms don't waste your time with this amp.

The app is amazing. No problems with it so far wish I had a bass to put under my dash

I am using this to power one db k6 12 inch subwoofer @ 4 ohms on my mazda 3 and to be honest I am loving this product combination. I could have had 2 subs but I didn't want to go loud and with only one sub this thing really hits hard. I had it professionally installed by best buy and they recommended me to get 4 awg wire and with that setup the amplifier is still working and hits really hard. The only negative that I will give this amplifier is that it does get really hot but it hasn't to a point where it would shut off. I would recommend that if u are planning to upgrade to this amplifier or if u are going to add another high power amplifier I would warn u that stock battery can't handle the power. I had my stock battery for 6 years but once I installed this amplifier my battery died in 3 weeks. You would have to go with deep cycle battery like optima Yellow top or any battery that has deep cycle technology. It draws so much power that my headlights were dimming each time, bass hits @ nite time with stock battery. I don't have that problem anymore. So in net shell this unit require some proper install and will work great but if u go with cheap wires this will fry your electrical system on your car.

I'm sold on the lanzer amp, they are powerful and reliable. I have the Vector 2 channel bridge system one speaker, so I purchased two 3000w lanzar one channel split for each speaker. This not only produces a better sound, it actually plays continuously at a low heat production.

A descent amp but the base that has the holes to mount the unit is a weak plastic material and the holes split when i attempted to secure the unit to my auto by hand

OK first of all let's look at the stats on this amp. It's a typical low end amp, over rated on power, just look at the actual parts of it to start with so you don't get disappointed in the first place. A normal 3k amp is going to cost you a minimum of $600-$1k... It's around $65 hmmm. OK now that that's outta the way it has a 40amp fuse. 40amps x 12.5 volts= 500 watts. Even at 14volts your looking at 560watts possible total output. Highly unlikely to even reach that or your going to be popping fuses all the time. So I have had this hooked up to a sealed 12" audiobahn 4ohm and ran in parallel with an 8" bazooka tube 4ohm and it rattled the rear view enough to be useless when it hit. Tune it right and it hits pretty good... not comp end but can definitely hear outta the car. Hope this helps those who research.

Am Anfang nicht schlecht,doch nach einer Weile lösen sich Schrauben und die Sicherungen haut es immer raus. War echt begeistert am Anfang Preis/Leistung doch nun dich ich mir was wo länger hält Bestellt am 23.06.18 und schon defekt

I am currently giving this Amp an extensive test, so I will write an honest and hopefully accurate evaluation of the product in a few days, so far though it is working an behaving like a champ, before purchasing the amp I visited Lanzar home page and downloaded the manual, then looked at all the important details and parameters for its operation. For any potential buyers out there please understand that this is Mos-Fet technology (metal-oxide semiconductor field-effect transistor), which is older but tried and tested, Mos-Fet was used in all but a few valve power amp up until recently, they are designed to cope with a fair amount of operating heat and have great advantage in delivering REAL TRUE power, it is very difficult for a big company to make a 'bad Amp' using this technology. The unit is operating fine straight out of the box! Many people ignore the operating parameters given by the corporation and then complain when something goes wrong. I began as a Sound Engineer some long time ago, and am still a working DJ, I am going to tell all that is to be known about this Amp, the real deal! Before buying things on Amazon, I rely on the reviews both the good and the bad ones, and I believe in accuracy and clarity and truth. (however I've learned to weed out whining wimps, some people should not be allowed anywhere near good equipment, I've learnt this over the years through lending out disco equipment, usually comes back badly damaged with a bizarre & ridiculous story), the moaners are really saying the equipment was NOT 'idiot proof' enough. (And will never be!) I am playing various music as heavy as possible, as hard as I can, and will update shortly. (Hope it helps someone)...... First Update.....After one week, I'm using two 4 Ohm subs, both with peak handling capabilities of around a 1000 watts, together that's 2000 watts peak. That means that the nominal or RMS power between them is around 500 watts (always roughly one quarter of the peak amount) I've wired them in series for a total of 8 Ohms Load to the amp, the amp has a peak of 3000 watts into a 2 Ohms load, so why don't I go for the peak power set-up? Because it would be a waste of time! In the 8 Ohms configuration the unit will deliver a comfortable 600-750 watts rms far more than my two speakers can ever handle, but more importantly it has plenty of head room in reserve (NO DISTORTION)! Why does that matter? The amp is rated to be 2 Ohms stable, and when the bass drops, (when the speakers are driven hard) the impedance rises and falls to much more than half of its rated value, and when impedance falls to zero it creates an open channel to the power source, in this case the battery, (that means a direct current from the battery through the amp (smoke and tears) which can in some cases, end up frying the speakers also), some power Amps are rated down to half an Ohm (.5) stable, that is a different matter! Those Amps can handle a 2 Ohm load and be driven hard all day. (In other words there is NO point starting with the speaker impedance matching the STABLE rating of the Amp, because any BASS will always cause the impedance to fall below that point, causing heat and damage, wasting money!!) If one takes a 10,000 watts Amp + 16 midrange 10 watts speakers rated 4 Ohms, wire them in parallel, the Amp will blow after a few seconds, its not the speakers, its not the Amp, its the incorrect wiring! The present set-up means that I can drive the two subs to the extreme limit, because the bass will cause the impedance to fall to 4 or 3 Ohms no lower, (that will correspond nicely to the peak 2000 watts ability of my two subs, because as the impedance is force to fall, the power from the Amp rises, all be it for fractions of a second) end result is a rich deep bass, which is brutal and hits like a sledgehammer, and I am playing heavy weight reggae, drum n' bass, and garage etc, I have run the amp all day long and it has not even warmed up, (I will give a demo to anyone who wants to get in touch, using your choice of music, and dare you to turn the bass more that half way! You will have a kidney massage, as this thing kicks like a mule). As a result it is better to get 100% out of 500 watts 2000 peak, than 20-30% from a higher setting with distortion and thermal runaway. I've temporally added two fans (Pictured) with a remote control switch under the drivers seat, in the event the amp 'was' to heat up, but so far it has been running very cold, next I will change the set-up, by adding another sub and wiring all into a 4 Ohm load, but this will also need a power cap which I am not using at present, (because I have a super heave duty deep cycle truck battery, which does the job nicely). The 4 Ohm set-up will double the power drawn from the Amp, and an extra sub will also double the sound pressure level, which in turn means I will be able to play higher level at a lower crossover point. (Will feel the bass more than hear the bass!) Will update at that point, but for now I contend that this a very, very good quality piece of kit. Final update, the Amp is still working fine, and delivering real and seriously heavy bass, clean and rich, I do use a (Subwoofer Bass Controller - Level and Frequency) with it, which I recommend, I have found that the fans are not necessary or needed, so all is still well after several months of audio fun! Last tip, This amp draws a huge amount of power, so use the heaviest power cable you can get hold of, I recommend getting a 800 to '1200 amp pro jump cable' and cut them for this job this saves money and is overkill, also make sure the alternator is up to the Job, have fun!

Definitely not 1500w rms @ 2ohm but it does work. It's probably around the 500w rms mark. Stricter guidelines should be in place when products are promoted with such numbers and not allow these companies to deceive potential customers. Amp is Probably worth $50AUD at most. Lesson learnt, it looks too good to be true because it isn't.

3000 watt dichiarati, se arriva a 200 watt è già tanto, riscalda molto e rende poco, puntare verso altri marchi

good amplifier, I dont regret buying it even when I had a doubht in the begining when I saw some bad reviews about it, but honestly its one of the best with low price. you need just one farad capacitor if you are going to buy it. mine is pushing hard 3 subs pioneer 10 inch with any problem.