E.F.R Aluminum Thermal Heat Shield Protection with Fiberglass and Self-Adhesive Backing Heat Barrier- 8 Sq Ft (24x48 Inch)

I bought a new toaster oven and placed it on our kitchen counter under a cabinet. This oven gets pretty hot and was worried about the heat generated under a wood cabinet. The heat shield is terrific. I adhered it under the cabinet. Fit perfectly and am not worried about my wood catching on fire.

I haven’t been this excited since my 14th birthday and my parents bought me my very own sewing machine! I had been trying to figure out how I could protect my utility table from the heat of steam pressing. I had already warped one table top and was hoping to make the new one last longer! I googled heat shield and ultimately ended up buying this product. I also bought a piece of Masonite the same size as my wool pressing pad. I read in the reviews that the edges tended to ravel so I bought some heat tape for the edges. I applied the heat shield to the Masonite and put tape around the edges. Then it was time to test my idea. I was blown away! I only had a meat thermometer so temperatures might be a few degrees off, but the results were amazing. The first picture shows the temperature of the table top when I started - 79.3° F. Next I put my steam iron on the wool pressing mat for 30 seconds. Temperature - 211.8° F! No wonder the table tops would warp. I cooled the table and pressing mat with an ice pack and then put my newly created heat shield between the table top and the wool pressing mat and put my steam iron on the pressing mat for 30 seconds. The temperature of the table top? Only 121.8° F! Almost 100° less! Then I checked the temperature between the pressing mat and heat shield - 210.6° F! I predict this heat shield contraption will keep my table top flat! The stream from the iron did discolor the head shield foil a bit, but who cares! This stuff is phenomenal! If you know any quilters or crafters, let them know you can fix their warped table problems!

Fit the task perfectly - resurrecting a very early production '85 BMW K100 motorcycle that did not have the under-tank heat shielding factory installed on the later production models. K-bikes are famous for 100,000+ mile drive-train longevity and infamous for high engine heat output - sufficient to boil fuel in the tank on hot days; hence the later heat shielding. I used this material to completely insulate the bottom of the gas tank, and also used it on the bottom and front-side of the air filter housing box. I found it cut cleanest with serrated-blade scissors (the offset handle kind you keep in your workbench drawer), and molded well to the dips and curves on the tank bottom as long as the surface was clean and dry (recommend PrepSol or rubbing alcohol, with compressed air or plain old sunlight drying), and I took my time. Adhesion was/is excellent so far, with no signs of any material separation. Quality product, great adhesion, molds easily, and thin enough that I had no problems at all refitting the tank or airbox. As I said, fit the task perfectly.

I love this stuff! I used it to protect the plastic heater/AC plenum on a V8 swapped Ford Ranger. It's worked very well to keep the box from melting or deforming from excess heat from the headers. My only complaint is that I'd like to see a little stronger adhesive if possible. I had a couple really small pieces come loose after a few heat cycles. But only the small pieces came loose. The large pieces have stayed exactly where I put them. I'd recommend this heat shielding to anyone.

The radiator cooling fan in my car is 2 inches away from the catalytic converter on the engine. I used this material as a heat shield on the back of the fan motor. It does get warm under operation but blocks all infra red radiation like a champ and should let the motor live a normal life. The adhesive is extra sticky. No problem sticking to plastic and stays put. I cut it with a standard pair of scissors. Top notch material.

I used the Aluminum & Fiberglass Heat Shield Barrier with Adhesive Backing to solve 2 problems. 1> The expansion chamber exhaust of my NSR250 presses directly to the inside of the bodywork. The OEM bodywork comes with a thin layer of heat shielding that works with the OEM exhaust, but the aftermarket exhaust I’m using requires additional insulation. I put 2 layers of the Aluminum & Fiberglass Heat Shield Barrier with Adhesive Backing in the specific areas that are subjected to extreme & direct heat. 1 layer may be enough, but I put on 2 to be certain. 2> Some of the plastic clips that are used to secure the body panels to one another have broken over the years so I’m using the Aluminum & Fiberglass Heat Shield Barrier with Adhesive Backing for additional strength where these plastic clips have broken.I’m in the early stages of using the Aluminum & Fiberglass Heat Shield Barrier with Adhesive Backing, thus far it is the best I’ve ever used. I will provide an update to this review if my opinion changes on this product.

I have an old Porsche. The engine compartment sound silencer deteriorated over the years and needed replacement. Rather than replace it, I chose to try this heat blanket as a repair. It worked well and was easy to install. Solved my problem perfectly, thus the 5 star rating.Robert Keller