Tripp Lite LC1800 Power Conditioner for Audio Equipment, Appliances, Home Theater & More | 1800W, 120V, 6 Outlets, Voltage Regulator (AVR), EMI/RFI Filter, Line Conditioner, 1440 Joule Surge Protector

Our washer and dryer in our basement have been acting strange since we moved to our current house. During the hottest days of summer when the grid is under heavy load, we are unable to run our washer. The washer's onboard computer throws a "PL" error message when it starts, which indicates it detects a problem with the power (namely the voltage drops below 104V). We had two different electricians out, and also called our power company, but none of them could explain why the voltage to just that one outlet drops so severely (nothing else in our house experiences problems). We inquired about having the outlet replaced, or even the wiring to that outlet replaced, but both electricians said the wiring and outlet look fine and blame the power company, and the power company blames our home's wiring. We've since learned the issue is actually on the power company with the line coming to our house from the substation, but getting the power company to commit to fixing it is a completely different issue. Stuck with only being able to do laundry at night (and even that's not a given on some hot nights), I started looking at power conditioners that offered AVR. There are a lot of easy/plugin options for computers/electronics (most part of battery backups, which we don't need), and not-so-easy options for things like generators and RV's, but nothing really advertises itself for large appliances (or in our case, a large appliance that also has a computer). Between our washer and dryer (assuming we'd have to plug both in), the combined max load of both appliances is around 2160W. This line conditioner is the "biggest" of the easy/plug-in variety so it was really the only choice. I plugged in just the washer, and it ran fine so we waited for a hot day. The hot day came, and we were able to run laundry all day with no problem. The line condition indicator lights on the front confirmed that the issue we were seeing was low voltage, and it appears to be doing a terrific job of cleaning up the power and boosting the volts back to normal (I haven't actually measured the power coming out of it, so I can't say that definitively). A big caveat to this line conditioner is the "2400W" they advertise. It only offers 2400W if you're using a 20A plug. The plug attached to the line conditioner out of the box is a normal15A plug, so you're instructed to cut the end off and wire up the included 20A adapter in order to get the full 2400W (of course you also need a 20A outlet on a 20A circuit). Until i find the time to do that, we're left with just a measly 1875W. That's still enough for just the washer so I'm happy, but I wish the marketing around this device were more straightforward as I didn't learn this until after I got the device. Edit: just to clarify, we have a natural gas dryer, which uses a normal 15a 120v wall plug (the same kind everything else uses). This conditioner won't work with electric dryers which need the special 240V plugs.

I just put together a very expensive audio system using cheap cables and power strip. The system sounded terrible. A loud humming crackling sound and the 12v trigger not working. I picked this unit because it fit perfectly in the little bit of space I had left in my rack. This unit knocked out all the audio feedback, humming and crackling in the system as well as fixed my 12v trigger problem. And it looks good. I'm am very very happy.

Caution! Amazon lumps together similar items in the review. If the exact model is not listed in the review, the reviews may not be for the particular item you want. If the search function doesn’t find what you request, Amazon will still present a few pages of junk you don’t want instead of honestly saying they don’t have that. I bought the 600w size. It works, power out put showed a very steady 121 .

How do I know it's working? Easy! I noticed a slight clicking sound coming from my new Tripp Lite line conditioner. Remembering reading in the manual that this is normal, I started paying attention to exactly WHEN it was clicking. Quickly figured out that it coincided with my whole house A/C starting up. We have good power here but the A/C is still a big draw. Nice to know the Tripp Lite is doing its job adjusting the current flow to my computer. Very satisfied with this purchase. Highly recommend.

This has some ferrite rings with coils on them to filter out certain frequencies, some metal oxide varistors to provide surge protection ( they short out the circuit to ground if there is a voltage surge above a certain level--the are sacrificial parts), and a transformer with multiple taps to provide voltage regulation. Basically, if the voltage is too low or high, a relay changes to a transformer tap that boosts or lowers the output voltage relative to the input. This does not give 120V at every input voltage. The output voltages are shown below as a function of input voltages for the rated input range of the device. The values shown are nominal +/- 3 volts so actual out can range from 100 Volt to 130 volts. The sacrificial MOVs are an inexpensive way to provide surge protection. Non-sacrificial method would be to dump the surge voltage through a massive coil, which costs much more than MOVs. Unfortunately you can't tell when the MOVs are shot show you should replace the unit every year or so. Input______Output Voltage____Voltage 87_______103.356 88_______104.544 89_______105.732 90_______106.92 91_______108.108 92_______109.296 93_______110.484 94_______111.672 95_______112.86 96_______114.048 97_______115.236 98_______116.424 99_______117.612 100______118.8 101______119.988 102______111.078 103______112.167 104______113.256 105______114.345 106______115.434 107______116.523 108______117.612 109______118.701 110______119.79 111______120.879 112______121.968 113______113 114______114 115______115 116______116 117______117 118______118 119______119 120______120 121______121 122______122.0 123______123.0 124______124.0 125______125.0 126______126.0 127______127.0 128______128.0 129______116.6 130______117.5 131______118.4 132______119.3 133______120.2 134______121.1 135______122.0 136______122.9 137______123.8 138______124.8 139______125.7 140______126.6 These values are nominal +/- 3 volts so actual out can range from 100 Volt to 130 volts.

Inside this is a big (auto?)transformer, with relays that switch the winding in use. So there is some hum from the thing as long as it's switched on, which might be annoying depending on your usage. It's *not* an online UPS or similar so it won't "fix" anything if your waveform isn't ideal (e.g. from generator). Some filtering is provided too. Nice that it works with a 20A circuit, which not many suppressors do.

A good compact safety device that will protect UV ballast on filtration system from power surges and Irregular generator current.

Click on click off click on click off. It must be working because I can hear it. This is heavy duty equipment and unless you suffer from frequent power losses it is more cost effective per watt than a UPS. The major problem with a UPS is that the batteries always degrade over time and eventually need to be replaced whereas this should run for 20 years. Some may argue but I also think this is better at line conditioning and voltage regulation than most UPSes. We live in a 20 year old home in a modern neighborhood in a big city. You wouldn't expect dirty power. However, I noticed the lights dimming whenever the dryer kicked in and this got me thinking. This unit lets you know every time it kicks on and off and confirmed that I definitely have power issues. The skeptic might say that no power is perfect and that you could expect this in any house. Perhaps, but I have some very expensive electronics connected to this and it gives me peace of mind. A good purchase in my opinion.

Buen producto

Does not condition line voltage powering our UV system. Tried another brand that worked perfectly. On top of that this isn't returnable!