LC2i 2 Channel Active Line Output Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control for Adding Aftermarket Amplifiers or Processors

I upgraded from a scoshe tiny little LOC and this thing is awesome. Easy to install with removable wire plugs. The eq settings work well like accubbass to add bass at high volumes where the bass cuts out. I was very pleased with the way this sounds. Trust me either order this or the lc2i pro. You won’t be disappointed. Also it’s not very expensive at $90

Works very good and is great product.

My old unit went out a few days ago, so I decided to try this one as a more affordable replacement. Setup was super easy, and to my surprise, it actually performs better than the more expensive model I replaced! The sound is cleaner with noticeably deeper bass. I’m genuinely impressed and would highly recommend this to anyone considering it. In this case, going with the cheaper option turned out to be the better choice! However, I will say they could improve their quality control when it comes to packaging. My box arrived cracked, and the unit was a bit dusty—as if it had been previously opened or stored improperly. It still works perfectly, but a little more attention to packaging would make the overall experience better.

Works just like I had expected. previously I used a non powered LOC, and it was obviously low quality. If i remember right it was like a 30 dollar random brand thing from best buy. alternator whine, speakers popped when system turned on, balance was way off, etc etc. every problem I experienced was gone as soon as this turned on. GTO (basically an automatic signal sense which turns this on as opposed to remote turn on) works perfectly for me. No delay or anything. which really isn't that awesome of a feature. but it did save me about 10 minutes of splicing my remote turn on for a third item (low and high amps and then this) Installed in a 2010 F-150 lariat with no navigation or premium sound. While it sounds good, I had no previous problems (that i could notice) with my Low hz being cut off. so I can't speak to its ability to eliminate that problem. This setup does however allow me to keep my factory steering column controls, sync, etc etc...which is great. Only con I really came across is the fact that it doesn't ever really tell you to install a fuse unless you pay special attention to the specifications listings which "recommends" you install a 1 amp fuse. And the only reason I knew to do this was because a previous powered LOC I had blew up because I overlooked the same detail. Not really a hardcore con to the product. Especially, since if you pay attention, the information is there. Just something to keep in mind. I installed with a 1/2 amp in line fuse rated at 12v, so far works fine, just didn't have immediate access to the 1 amp fuse so I figured I'd try this first. No harm in going on the conservative side. I suppose another thing to mention is the fact that it does not come with any wires or fuse holder or anything, so plan ahead and don't expect to just plug this in with included hardware. Most likely my next step will be to buy a equalizer to help balance out my highs (and possibly something for the lows too). this is just due to the fact that my truck has nothing except a rudimentary treble and bass adjustment. If your head unit has some more features this may be all you need, since the adjustments you make to the head unit still apply to any signal sent through the LOC. Last thing I'd like to leave you with, this thing really opens up your system (if your coming from a OEM factory head unit) to cranking the bass way the heck up. I ended up leaving all my gains neutral and turning the "accubass" adjust down to minimum. Someone with more beefy Subs than me (two 10" shallow mount pioneers) may have more success in cranking it up, but for me, it only drove my speakers to max way to early.

Overall I would consider this a good purchase. This product did what it said it would do and did it well. After completing the installation I did have one issue and it was a result of not having the PRO model (LC2i Pro) I have a 2011 Volvo C30 with the Dynaudio Premium stereo and I wanted to add an amp and sub so I decided to go with this model. It was hard enough having to remove the trim on the passenger side rear of the car to access two sets of speaker wires (both black and white braided wires headed to the front speakers). To get to the wires I had to remove the seats and the trim. Upon completion of this install, I turned the car stereo on and realized the amp did not turn on as I began to play music. Lo and behold, as I turned the volume up to about halfway, the amp did turn on and the bass on the sub was rather loud and unexpected at that point. As I continued to use the unit, the amp would shut off if the sound dropped below half and it would kick back in when I turned it up. This became more of a nuisance than anything so I reached out to the manufacturer to get some tech support. The tech support was great, they have phone, email, and text support. I tried all three and got the best result through email. As it turns out, the PRO version of this device has a switch that you can choose how the device recognizes signals to "trigger" it to turn on and turn the amp on as part of the GTO (Great Turn On) function. On the non-pro model there is only one method by which it realizes it needs to turn on and a simple audio signal is not enough. You can choose "audio" as the trigger method on the Pro model but not on this one. After finding out this information, I decided to simply run a remote turn-on wire to the fuse panel in the front of the car. I initially bought this device so I wouldn't have to do that part but it was actually quite easy to add at the end. I did pull this amp and sub from another car that was powered by a cheap aftermarket head unit with preamp outputs and it was a night and day difference with using a quality line output converter. I was able to turn the gains down below 1/4 on the amp and it sounds so much better than it did on my previous setup. I am running an Infinity Kappa One K amp at 2 ohms to a single Kicker Solo Baric 2ohms sub and it does indeed sound great. I am rating this product 4 stars because of the limited GTO functionality that I think needs to be on all of the LOC's that are made, not just the better ones.

Just installed an LC2i, lets just say: Active LC2i LOC = dirty in --> clean out Passive LOC = dirty in --> dirty out What is an AudioContol LC2i you ask? It's an active line output converter (LOC) that taps off a speaker-level signal from your post OEM-amp speaker wire line. I have mine hooked to the OEM subwoofer line on my 2014 Lexus IS350 with the base premium sound system (not the Mark Levinson). The LC2i eliminates the frequency roll-off that is built into the OEM amp to protect the OEM subwoofer and restores all available signals to its full potential. It resolved all of the issues I had prior to an LC2i: the bass would roll off around 70Hz, so any frequency below this would gradually curve downwards until the signal is completely cutoff by the OEM amp. This was a problem when using both speaker-level or a passive LOC to an aftermarket subwoofer; you cannot expect an aftermarket subwoofer & amp to perform if the signal is slowly phased out right ? The bass-boost feature on my powered subwoofer could only do so much before distortion sets in. So in goes the LC2i...Well worth the price if you enjoy music to it's fullest. The bass is bigger, rounder, fuller,wider range, and more powerful. Distortion from the subwoofer is eliminated up to 3/4 volume. This is on my cheap Chinese-made Rockville RVB8.1A 8" powered subwoofer (200watt RMS/300watt peak), I can't imagine how it will sound once my JBL powered subwoofer arrives As a test, I set the crossover on the amp to 50Hz and played songs with low bass. The result below 50Hz was that you can continue to hear bass response down to 35Hz where my current subwoofer/amp combo can no longer hit notes with the built in low-pass filter. If anyone is on the fence, get an AudioControl LC2i, especially if you enjoy good listening. You'll eliminate the issues that are faced due to the limitations brought on my the OEM amplifier.

I originally put a passive Scosche LOC in my car when I couldn't find low level outputs on my factory system. It popped and clicked and the bass was missing at the low end of things. I replaced it with this (and mounted a level control knob), and things are sounding dramatically better. The signal was so weak on the Scosche unit that the bass would drop off in certain ranges even though I was tapping the high level lines for factory door subwoofers. The little white Accubass threshold knob on this thing allows you to adjust until the bass "pops back in" at lower ranges. The manual was a bit short for my tastes, and I am not sure what each knob does or does differently from one another. However, this thing really boosted my signal and has added in about 50% more low end punch. Before I got this I was disappointed with my setup. I previously always had high voltage preamp outputs to use from aftermarket stereos with my installs. With this thing, the sound level stays consistent with the volume instead of ramping up only at high volumes like I got on a passive unit and things sound to me much like they are coming from a clean preamp signal. Something I really liked about this was the fact that the terminal ports can be unclipped from the unit if you want to work on them separately. This makes it a lot easier to wire in a tight space and then snap them back in when you are done. The unit is fairly weighty and long, so it was a difficult fit for me where I needed it on the wall under the dashboard. All in all, I would get this thing if you need a LOC. I balked at the price initially, but this thing is worlds better than the scosche units. Overall it is worth the price, and the construction of this thing makes me believe it will hold up long enough to be used in future installs if and when I change vehicles. Don't waste time with other LOC's with mixed reviews. You will be end up paying for two when you buy this to replace it.

Running this in my 2012 BMW M3. Didn't want to mess with my OEM iDrive CIC but didn't want the typical loss of sound quality you normally associate with LOC's... After reading reviews, The LC2i seemed superior the other higher quality LOC's made by the competitors. FYI, I am using this unit with (1) 12" Alpine Type R DVC (4ohm Coils, wired in Parallel down to 2 ohms), a Pioneer Champion Series 2400w Mono 1 ohm stable amplifier. 4 AWG Wiring, High Quality RCAs, and a 2.0 Farad Power Capacitor. (Just added Hifonics BXI Pro Bass Enhancer (Another great product, although had I known that Audio Control made a comparable product, "the Epicenter: Bass Enhancer" I would have bought that over the the BX PRO. Sounds incredible, the same, If not better than had i been using the best quality pre-amp outputs from a high end head unit. ***WARNING*** Use a multimeter or occiliscope to test your peak wattage and RMS before hooking up your amp, then before wiring your sub. If you don't know how, have it professionally installed....This unit can potentially increase voltage and therefore wattage going to into (thus out of) your amp by a great deal. With the Gain set at its lowest point, my amp which advertises 800 RMS @ 2 ohms, was pushing over 1000RMS, because I had my LC2i Bass Output Knob turned passed 12 o clock. (No need to go further than 12) and with an already overpowered amp (even for a type R) I keep my general output on my LC2i to about 1/4 power, gain on amp @ lowest setting, and a gain remote (2x's RCA in/out) to actually further lower the RCA input voltage into my amp to protect my speaker. I also should have wired my sub in series to bring it to 8ohms so I can actually use some of the monster power my system is capable of. But anyway, Back on topic. Before this I had the EXACT same setup with a PAC $20 LOC. After switching to the AC LC2i, It was like I bought a $500+ head unit. Completely eliminated my need for an aftermarket head unit. Instead, I am planning on upgrading to the LC6i 6 channel LOC and upgrading all 9 OEM speakers and running a 15 Band EQ (ALL my BMW CiC has in Bass/Treble LOL)