---
product_id: 2162960
title: "Epifanes Clear Varnish"
brand: "epifanes"
price: "$202"
currency: NZD
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Epifanes"
url: https://www.desertcart.nz/products/2162960-epifanes-clear-varnish
store_origin: NZ
region: New Zealand
---

# 12h dry time @65°F Marine-grade tung oil formula UV filters for superior protection Epifanes Clear Varnish

**Brand:** epifanes
**Price:** $202
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⚓ Elevate your woodwork with the gloss that professionals swear by!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Epifanes Clear Varnish by epifanes
- **How much does it cost?** $202 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.nz](https://www.desertcart.nz/products/2162960-epifanes-clear-varnish)

## Best For

- epifanes enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted epifanes brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Ultimate UV defense:** Advanced UV filters shield wood from sun damage, preserving that showroom gloss longer.
- • **Versatile application:** Perfect for interior or exterior, hardwood or softwood, brushed, sprayed, or rolled.
- • **Marine-grade durability:** Formulated with tung oil and alkyd resins trusted by boat builders worldwide.
- • **Fast yet flawless finish:** Dries to touch in just 12 hours, recoatable in 24 for efficient project flow.
- • **Gloss that commands attention:** Ultra-high gloss finish that elevates any wood surface to a masterpiece.

## Overview

Epifanes Clear Varnish is a premium tung oil-based marine spar varnish renowned for its superior flow, durability, and ultra-high gloss finish. It dries quickly within 12 hours at 65°F and offers exceptional UV protection, making it ideal for both interior and exterior wood surfaces, including marine applications. Trusted by professionals for restoring and protecting wood with a deep, clear, and long-lasting finish.

## Description

World famous, highest quality marine spar varnish. Formulated with tung oil, phenolic and alkyd resins and U.V. filters for superior protection.

Review: EVERY BIT AS GOOD AS ALL THE CLAIMS! - 08/19/2015: Epifanes Clear Varnish (1000 ml (about a quart)) Ambient temperature for all dates = 65-75 degrees F. Humidity = approx 80-85%. August 15: First coat, 1:1 Epifanes high gloss and Klean Strip odorless mineral spirits (Klean Strip is $33.63/gal plus $27.50 shipping at desertcart or $14.63/gal and free in store pickup at Home Depot). Varnish coat was applied with a foam brush over finely sanded and stained mahogany on a 1962 Chris Craft wooden yacht. The mahogany was in poor condition due to exposure to several windy and rainy winters. Dry to the touch in 4-6 hours but still a soft/fragile feel (as with all subsequent coats. (Just about right for the next coat)). The first coat already showed signs of a superior gloss but the wood grain still had a feel that it should be filled with additional coats of varnish. August 16: Second coat, no sanding, 1:1 applied with a foam brush. August 17: Third coat no sanding, 1:1 applied with a foam brush. Now building a beautiful gloss. August 18: Fourth coat still no sanding, 2 parts Epifanes and 1 part mineral spirits (2:1) applied with high quality bristle brush. Wood grain now filling nicely and a high gloss is obvious. August 19: Light sanding with 320 grit wet/dry (wet) paper, wiped clean with damp cloth, wind dried. Fifth coat 2:1 applied with a high quality bristle brush. Gloss is now deep and far superior to any product I've used to date (I've used many over the past 30+ years). I will let these coats cure for 5 to 7 days, sand with 320 or 400 grit wet paper and apply coats six and seven. I will update this review at that time. Epifanes lives up to the many stellar reviews it gets and looks like many many hours of hard work went into this old wood (well, it did but it looks like many more than what was actual). This varnish spreads on easily and flows nicely to eliminate most if not all brush marks. I still have at least 3/4 of the first quart and I ordered a second can so there will be no interruption in the work. The only downside thus far is; I live with a Malamute Husky and he is blowing fur right now so keeping his hair off the wet varnish is a challenge. I can't blame him or Epifanes for that so I just live with it and have a hair picking session each evening. Good opportunity to drink a beer and admire the results of this great spar varnish Now if only it is as durable as folks claim,,, If the beer is nice and cold, I just may apply an eighth coat (or ninth). More later!,,,,, It's now later and as promised, here's more: 8/25/15: The first coats cured very well and I applied an undiluted coat of Epifanes. The overall result is a bit disappointing, not because of any real flaw with the varnish but undiluted it simply gels and leaves a wavy feel as well as visible texture on the surface. The varnish itself is quite thick. More like a high viscosity motor oil treatment than conventional varnish. I suspected this may be the result so I only varnished a small area. Now when this coat cures, I'll sand it smooth and re-coat with a mixture of 2 parts Epifanes and 1 part mineral spirits. 08/26/2015: I applied a mixture of 2 parts Epifanes and 1 part mineral spirits. The result is back to outstanding so I will not use this product undiluted in the future. The gloss really is great and tough. Remember that Malamute Husky? Well. he's still blowing fur. He jumped on the varnished mahogany when the coat was only 24-28 hours old. To my amazement, there were no scratch marks at all. When this fully cures, we will both be happy little boatsters!! I love this stuff!!! BUT, I strongly recommend that you use a 2:1 dilution for final coats. The application is much easier and the resulting gloss will make you proud! AND, SINCE THIS IS A RATHER PRICEY ITEM, A COUPLE HINTS TO HELP SAVE A FEW BUX: 1. If you don't use it all within a week or so, as you use this up, pour the contents into a smaller can. This will reduce the air space and help keep the remaining varnish from turning to gel. 2. If it does start to gel, thin it with mineral spirits and use one of those Mr. Coffee type fine mesh strainers and pour the varnish through it. This will filter out a large majority of the clumps and help insure a nice smooth finish when you go to use it again. I shouldn't have to say this but in case the hot coffee lady from McDonald's is reading,,, if you filter the varnish through the coffee filter, don't use that filter for making coffee. Thank you. AU //(~_~)\\
Review: Best of the Best but tough on Amateurs! (TIPS provided) - This is the best wood finish product but it is difficult to work with for someone like me who never painted or refinished anything. Lessons I learned: Always thin the product, even for the final coats. Otherwise it will "pull" off the hardened varnish from the table when brush strokes overlap. By the end of the table, the product is too thick to use reliably and thinning it a bit will prevent that from happening. Use a good brush (purdy > yachtsman, or whatever that brand is called) and stick to 3-inch size or smaller. Anything larger is too difficult to brush on smoothly without thick brush strokes needing sanding down later. Don't over sand the sides of a table. They sand down way quicker than the top and you will sand to the bare wood if not careful. Apply in the most dust free setting possible. Wet the floor if you have to. Then, if anything drops on the wet layer, wait till it dries and sand it off. Picking at it will worsen the surface more. Also, pull the brush hairs before applying the varnish to ensure no loose ones fall out while applying. Don't go over any layer a second time. Once there, it's done. Period. Missed a spot? Sand down most of the layer there and start over. I had to re-apply at least 3-4 layers cause of mistakes. Ensure your brushes and varnish containers don't touch anything dirty. Otherwise, you will find dirt in a layer and have to sand it off completely then reapply all over again! Get a good sanding block for between the layers. Once using fine grain (>220), fold a papertowel to the sandpaper and block size and use it in between the paper and the block to ensure a softer pad and better contact with the varnish surface. BUY THE BIG CONTAINER. I went through 3 small ones (500mL), not sure why, maybe cause I stopped thinning it and was using a 4 inch brush, but for a table that cost a lot and I shoulda saved by getting the largest size. I used generic mineral spirits, but probably would get the epifanes product retrospectively as the flow was not that great and I think it would of been better if their mineral spirit is as good as their varnish. Dip the brushes in the mineral spirit first, press out the excess spirit and then let it soak up the varnish like a sponge. Allow strokes to slowly pull out the varnish from the brush as the surface drags it out from the hairs. Keep the brush upright with very little pressure for less brush strokes to be left behind but enough pressure to ensure all hair tips are in contact with the table (I'm pretty sure this is what gave me the best results, comment if I'm wrong about that.) Do NOT press-out excess varnish into the varnish container you are using. Microbubbles will contaminate the varnish and leave spots in the layer, again needing deeper sanding and slower overall progress. A lot slower. Don't go over one spot twice, and when you are varnishing, brush from the dry surface into the wet surface so as not to leave the bristles ever exposed to surface when they have no varnish running down them. If you do, it will "pull off" the varnish you are brushing on and leave dry spots despite having plenty of varnish on your brush. The more layers the better. But don't get impatient and keep thinning (a little bit at least) the final layers. Get a small can of the rubbed-effect semi-gloss/matte varnish for the final one-two layers. The glossy clear varnish is over-board when it comes to the clarity and a final semi-gloss sheen looks more classy and refined than the overkill flashiness of the glass-like clear varnish alone. Get a lot of sand paper. 220, 320, 400, 600 if you have to. I'm just waiting for this final layer of rubbed-effect varnish to dry completely, hope the brush strokes I see in it are not so deep they reach the last gloss layer, and will sand and buff this baby table top with an electric sander equipped with buffing pad. That is, if I don't decide to take the small amount of remaining semigloss and paint on another layer before doing so. (it always looks better with one more layer, every time). Just not sure if I have enough remaining to do that. I'd have to thin it a lot. If the sanding takes out the brush strokes/dry spots without reaching the gloss layer, then I'll just buff and be done with it. Total time will be at least 6 weeks for me. But DAMN that is a nice table top. So nice I was gonna use it in the kitchen for the family but I think I'll make it my office desk instead.

## Features

- World famous, highest quality traditional tung oil marine spar varnish. Dry time at 65 degree Fahrenheit: Dry in 12 hours, recoatable in 24 hours
- Formulated with tung oil, phenolic and alkyd resins resulting in a finish that has superior flow, gloss, durability, and exceptional longevity.
- UV filters for superior protection with an ultra high gloss finish
- Used in many applications, both exterior and interior, household or marine, brushed, sprayed, or rolled and tipped.
- Use on new wood or restoring old wood to a deep clear finish, softwood or hardwood, marine or household applications.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B005ADWKTG |
| Best Sellers Rank | #108,918 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #98 in Household Polyurethanes, Shellac & Varnish |
| Brand Name | Epifanes |
| Color | Clear |
| Customer Reviews | 4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars (1,154) |
| Date First Available | February 6, 2007 |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 08715559001058 |
| Included Components | Varnish |
| Item Dimensions LxWxH | 4.4 x 4.4 x 7.87 inches |
| Item Form | Liquid |
| Item Package Dimensions L x W x H | 5.25 x 4.35 x 4.25 inches |
| Liquid Volume | 1 Liters |
| Manufacturer | Epifanes |
| Package Weight | 1.04 Kilograms |
| Part Number | CV,1 |
| Size | 1000 ml |
| Style | Varnish |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Epifanes
- **Finish Type:** High-Gloss
- **Item Weight:** 2 Pounds
- **Material:** Wood
- **Recommended Uses For Product:** Exterior, Interior

## Images

![Epifanes Clear Varnish - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/611MldyhxWL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Does epifanes dry clear or does it have a yellow or orangey color after it dries?**
A: Same as John, my experience is that it dries clear but may shade over the years, 2 years of a transom weather exposed and it still has original color, fingers crossed.  Epiphanes is expensive but I don't have a single bad thing to say say about it...which is rare for me to say.

**Q: Can I use epifanes over linseed oil**
A: Linseed oil is the base for most oil based stains. It needs to be mostly to completely dry and not puddled. If possible, wipe over the linseed area with a good paint thinner to eliminate the puddles, and let it dry. I use Naphtha for my pre-wipe to help eliminate waxes and other surface contaminants. Epifanes should go over the linseed oil nicely if you follow the application directions. I have used it over many colored stains with the linseed oil base.

**Q: how much do I need to do 2 coats on 50 sq.ft.**
A: It depends on a couple of things.  If you thin the varnish (recommended) and the type of wood.  Bare dry porous wood like an oak would take several coats of thinned just to penetrate.  My best guess woul be one can thinned 50 / 50 to seal, being about 3 / 4 coats sanded between coats.  It will take the most of another can full strength, 3/4 coats sanded between to get the classic result I have always experienced with this product.  BTW, after a summer in the weather, my teak bench and chairs look like they are covered with a coat of thick ice.  INCREDIBLE stuff!!!

**Q: Could I use a fine nap paint roller to cover a 10 by 20 foot floor with this product? The floor will be exposed to some sun and rain.**
A: I have rolled the product many times, following behind with a brush tipped with the brushing liquid to smooth. Epifanes produces different types with varying amounts of UV protection.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ EVERY BIT AS GOOD AS ALL THE CLAIMS!
*by A***K on August 20, 2015*

08/19/2015: Epifanes Clear Varnish (1000 ml (about a quart)) Ambient temperature for all dates = 65-75 degrees F. Humidity = approx 80-85%. August 15: First coat, 1:1 Epifanes high gloss and Klean Strip odorless mineral spirits (Klean Strip is $33.63/gal plus $27.50 shipping at Amazon or $14.63/gal and free in store pickup at Home Depot). Varnish coat was applied with a foam brush over finely sanded and stained mahogany on a 1962 Chris Craft wooden yacht. The mahogany was in poor condition due to exposure to several windy and rainy winters. Dry to the touch in 4-6 hours but still a soft/fragile feel (as with all subsequent coats. (Just about right for the next coat)). The first coat already showed signs of a superior gloss but the wood grain still had a feel that it should be filled with additional coats of varnish. August 16: Second coat, no sanding, 1:1 applied with a foam brush. August 17: Third coat no sanding, 1:1 applied with a foam brush. Now building a beautiful gloss. August 18: Fourth coat still no sanding, 2 parts Epifanes and 1 part mineral spirits (2:1) applied with high quality bristle brush. Wood grain now filling nicely and a high gloss is obvious. August 19: Light sanding with 320 grit wet/dry (wet) paper, wiped clean with damp cloth, wind dried. Fifth coat 2:1 applied with a high quality bristle brush. Gloss is now deep and far superior to any product I've used to date (I've used many over the past 30+ years). I will let these coats cure for 5 to 7 days, sand with 320 or 400 grit wet paper and apply coats six and seven. I will update this review at that time. Epifanes lives up to the many stellar reviews it gets and looks like many many hours of hard work went into this old wood (well, it did but it looks like many more than what was actual). This varnish spreads on easily and flows nicely to eliminate most if not all brush marks. I still have at least 3/4 of the first quart and I ordered a second can so there will be no interruption in the work. The only downside thus far is; I live with a Malamute Husky and he is blowing fur right now so keeping his hair off the wet varnish is a challenge. I can't blame him or Epifanes for that so I just live with it and have a hair picking session each evening. Good opportunity to drink a beer and admire the results of this great spar varnish Now if only it is as durable as folks claim,,, If the beer is nice and cold, I just may apply an eighth coat (or ninth). More later!,,,,, It's now later and as promised, here's more: 8/25/15: The first coats cured very well and I applied an undiluted coat of Epifanes. The overall result is a bit disappointing, not because of any real flaw with the varnish but undiluted it simply gels and leaves a wavy feel as well as visible texture on the surface. The varnish itself is quite thick. More like a high viscosity motor oil treatment than conventional varnish. I suspected this may be the result so I only varnished a small area. Now when this coat cures, I'll sand it smooth and re-coat with a mixture of 2 parts Epifanes and 1 part mineral spirits. 08/26/2015: I applied a mixture of 2 parts Epifanes and 1 part mineral spirits. The result is back to outstanding so I will not use this product undiluted in the future. The gloss really is great and tough. Remember that Malamute Husky? Well. he's still blowing fur. He jumped on the varnished mahogany when the coat was only 24-28 hours old. To my amazement, there were no scratch marks at all. When this fully cures, we will both be happy little boatsters!! I love this stuff!!! BUT, I strongly recommend that you use a 2:1 dilution for final coats. The application is much easier and the resulting gloss will make you proud! AND, SINCE THIS IS A RATHER PRICEY ITEM, A COUPLE HINTS TO HELP SAVE A FEW BUX: 1. If you don't use it all within a week or so, as you use this up, pour the contents into a smaller can. This will reduce the air space and help keep the remaining varnish from turning to gel. 2. If it does start to gel, thin it with mineral spirits and use one of those Mr. Coffee type fine mesh strainers and pour the varnish through it. This will filter out a large majority of the clumps and help insure a nice smooth finish when you go to use it again. I shouldn't have to say this but in case the hot coffee lady from McDonald's is reading,,, if you filter the varnish through the coffee filter, don't use that filter for making coffee. Thank you. AU //(~_~)\\

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Best of the Best but tough on Amateurs! (TIPS provided)
*by D***N on August 9, 2015*

This is the best wood finish product but it is difficult to work with for someone like me who never painted or refinished anything. Lessons I learned: Always thin the product, even for the final coats. Otherwise it will "pull" off the hardened varnish from the table when brush strokes overlap. By the end of the table, the product is too thick to use reliably and thinning it a bit will prevent that from happening. Use a good brush (purdy > yachtsman, or whatever that brand is called) and stick to 3-inch size or smaller. Anything larger is too difficult to brush on smoothly without thick brush strokes needing sanding down later. Don't over sand the sides of a table. They sand down way quicker than the top and you will sand to the bare wood if not careful. Apply in the most dust free setting possible. Wet the floor if you have to. Then, if anything drops on the wet layer, wait till it dries and sand it off. Picking at it will worsen the surface more. Also, pull the brush hairs before applying the varnish to ensure no loose ones fall out while applying. Don't go over any layer a second time. Once there, it's done. Period. Missed a spot? Sand down most of the layer there and start over. I had to re-apply at least 3-4 layers cause of mistakes. Ensure your brushes and varnish containers don't touch anything dirty. Otherwise, you will find dirt in a layer and have to sand it off completely then reapply all over again! Get a good sanding block for between the layers. Once using fine grain (>220), fold a papertowel to the sandpaper and block size and use it in between the paper and the block to ensure a softer pad and better contact with the varnish surface. BUY THE BIG CONTAINER. I went through 3 small ones (500mL), not sure why, maybe cause I stopped thinning it and was using a 4 inch brush, but for a table that cost a lot and I shoulda saved by getting the largest size. I used generic mineral spirits, but probably would get the epifanes product retrospectively as the flow was not that great and I think it would of been better if their mineral spirit is as good as their varnish. Dip the brushes in the mineral spirit first, press out the excess spirit and then let it soak up the varnish like a sponge. Allow strokes to slowly pull out the varnish from the brush as the surface drags it out from the hairs. Keep the brush upright with very little pressure for less brush strokes to be left behind but enough pressure to ensure all hair tips are in contact with the table (I'm pretty sure this is what gave me the best results, comment if I'm wrong about that.) Do NOT press-out excess varnish into the varnish container you are using. Microbubbles will contaminate the varnish and leave spots in the layer, again needing deeper sanding and slower overall progress. A lot slower. Don't go over one spot twice, and when you are varnishing, brush from the dry surface into the wet surface so as not to leave the bristles ever exposed to surface when they have no varnish running down them. If you do, it will "pull off" the varnish you are brushing on and leave dry spots despite having plenty of varnish on your brush. The more layers the better. But don't get impatient and keep thinning (a little bit at least) the final layers. Get a small can of the rubbed-effect semi-gloss/matte varnish for the final one-two layers. The glossy clear varnish is over-board when it comes to the clarity and a final semi-gloss sheen looks more classy and refined than the overkill flashiness of the glass-like clear varnish alone. Get a lot of sand paper. 220, 320, 400, 600 if you have to. I'm just waiting for this final layer of rubbed-effect varnish to dry completely, hope the brush strokes I see in it are not so deep they reach the last gloss layer, and will sand and buff this baby table top with an electric sander equipped with buffing pad. That is, if I don't decide to take the small amount of remaining semigloss and paint on another layer before doing so. (it always looks better with one more layer, every time). Just not sure if I have enough remaining to do that. I'd have to thin it a lot. If the sanding takes out the brush strokes/dry spots without reaching the gloss layer, then I'll just buff and be done with it. Total time will be at least 6 weeks for me. But DAMN that is a nice table top. So nice I was gonna use it in the kitchen for the family but I think I'll make it my office desk instead.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Exceptional Guitar Gloss Finish
*by J***O on October 31, 2024*

The exact varnish you want to use for an authentic 1950-60's Gibson or Fender vintage style gloss finish. This is for serious builders only - you will likely need to wait 36-48 hours per coat before sanding, unless you live in the desert. It will produce that unmistakable glass clear, ultra hard, ultra long lasting UV resistant that will look beautiful 50 years down the line. Tips: You HAVE to thin this with mineral spirits. Otherwise you'll see each paint stroke and have to sand down a lot with each coat. If you're doing a headstock with a waterslide decal, I highly recommend you first set up your base color/stain/coat and then coat that with some clear gloss spray lacquer (like Stewmac sells). Then sand down to smooth with like 1500-3000 sandpaper, just really smooth feeling. Lay down your decal, press down with non-linty (cheap) toilet paper to remove wrinkles and excess water. Allow the waterslide decal to dry for 8 hours. Then begin coating with this varnish, thinned with mineral sprits in very thin coats. Thinner than you'd think, just make sure to cover everything evenly. Allow each coat to dry for at least 24 hours before you even think about touching it. Better to wait 48 hours. Then sand with 3000ish grit sandpaper, and barely sand any edges - they strip really easily. Final coat should be extremely thin and with plenty of mineral spirit to minimize any paintbrush marks. Then, WAIT. Leave it to dry for at minimum a week, ideally a month. At the end of a month this varnish will have hardened to a glass-like consistency. Then buff it out, polish it, and you have a guitar for a lifetime.

## Frequently Bought Together

- Epifanes Clear Varnish
- Epifanes Thinner for P & V Brush
- Epifanes Wood Finish Matte (500 ml) Package may Vary

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*Product available on Desertcart New Zealand*
*Store origin: NZ*
*Last updated: 2026-01-23*