Microsoft Wireless Display Adapter - USB/HDMI Display Adapter

I purchased this adapter to connect my desktop PC to the TV in the living room. I had been running a 25 ft. HDMI cable across the room (hidden under the couch), and have been looking at viable streaming options for a while. I wanted something easier and more straightforward than using a Roku or Fire TV side loaded with apps for media, and less troublesome than dragging a wire across the floor. This adapter seems to fit the bill perfectly.The adapter plugs directly into an empty HDMI port on one end, and a USB for power on the other, which is perfect for the extra unused ports that LG was kind enough to load my TV up with. Once the two connections are made (there is a USB adapter you can use if you have the wrong end on your TV), the TV recognizes it immediately as another input. After selecting the correct one, the device takes a few seconds to boot up and put an image on the screen; the first image I was greeted with was instructions on how to update the firmware from the Windows Store and how to swipe and find the option to add the device. I’m running Windows 8.1 still, but once I figured it out the connection took two attempts to sync with the TV.I had some initial issues with finding an option to “add a wireless device” to project to; my desktop runs Windows 8.1 (i7 4790, 24gb 1600mhz ram, Samsung EVO SSD primary, 980 ti) and uses an upgraded AC 1200 USB wifi adapter. The wireless adapter I had switched to does not support Miracast or WiDi, so I had to re-enable the older stock onboard wireless adapter. Once I’d enabled the older adapter, Windows immediately allowed me to sync with the adapter connected to the TV and I was presented with my desktop. Now I have one wireless adapter connected to the Miracast adapter on the TV, and one connected to the router for wifi. Pro tip: make sure your wifi adapter is Miracast and/or WiDi certified or compatible, otherwise this won’t work and you’ll need an additional adapter at your PC.I chose to extend my desktop and to drag the VLC movie player over, testing the connection by loading and watching the movie Creed. Once you leave your primary desktop there is an immediately discernable latency between mouse actions and the display that is being projected. This is normal, and does not affect anything once you have whatever you want running loaded, but is also the primary reason why this type of connection is not and cannot be used for any kind of gaming or precision work. The screen tearing and input latency would render it immensely unenjoyable, if not impossible. The movie itself played fine, after a few initial stuttering hiccups, and the image quality was as good as the copy of the movie itself. 1080p is a reality, but I have my doubts about anything higher, and I wouldn’t want to use this on a 4k TV.The stuttering did re-occur intermittently, and I’m not certain if it has to do with line of sight positioning, network stability, or hardware rendering. I’ll have to play around with it some more to figure out which it is, but so far I’m pleased. Make sure to switch your audio at the source machine, in Windows control, to the “Miracast wireless device” in order to get your audio routed through your TV and/or surround sound, otherwise the sounds will come out whatever the default is. The instructions, such as they are, are pretty limited; I get the idea that this type of device is intended for an audience that understands (mostly) how it should be set up - I found the guide at [...] to be pretty helpful.While the adapter itself did get moderately warm/hot to the touch, I doubt it will affect quality or longevity, but we’ll have to see. I’ll update this if/when I run into failure issues, and if I figure out how to optimize the signal quality. It may have been the type of video format or my hardware performance (I doubt it), but more testing is required. I wanted to get this review out relatively quickly because there were few when I bought it, and saving $50 instead of spending it on junk is always nice. I haven’t tried it with any of my tablets or laptops yet, but other people seem to have had success with those – I’ve no reason to connect my phone to the TV but if I do I’ll be sure to report back.As things stand, I recommend this adapter. 4 stars for ease of use, 1 star deducted for initial signal streaming quality. If I figure out how to stop the occasional video stutter, I’ll gladly rate it 5 stars.UPDATE 3-9-16I've since used it a few times with my Samsung Galaxy Note 5 and the screen sharing was flawless. It took the phone all of two seconds to connect once I enabled the screen sharing, and there were absolutely no hiccups or stuttering and the video quality was a full 1080p. I've come to the conclusion that the difficulties I had with the PC were due to line of sight issues that were my fault (there's a couch between it and the TV adapter, and someone was sitting on it) and that the adapter itself works just fine. I'm updating this to 5 stars, as I am completely satisfied with the purchase.

--I've had it for awhile now. It does not cast high resolution video. When you try what shows up on your TV is 'choppy, jerky', etc. As far as I can tell no device like this supports 1080p resolution yet. Again, don't believe the casting ads you see. 720p is a crap shoot but mostly it does cast. In general, the smaller, less resolute the video, the more likely it is to cast successfully.First, place little stock in what advertisements say about casting what you see on your media device or computer to your TV. Setting up 'Casting' is not easy, fun, or reliable, but it can be done.To sum up super-simple, you can either get a unit designed for Apple devices, or one designed for Windows devices, or one designed for Android devices, or one that tries to do everything. This device is specifically designed to cast from a recent-version Windows device. Period. One end of the device plugs into your TV HDMI port and the other end (for power) plugs into the TV USB port. If these are not available and close together, you'll have some problems setting up. An extender for the USB comes with it, but it is short. If you only have an HDMI port available, you can use a longer USB cable to plug in to an electric outlet if you have the standard USB power unit for doing so.The range? Think in terms of the olden days when we first had 'portable' phones. If you walk out of the room, stand by a 'noise' source such as a room heater, hair dryer, or Fridge, you may loose the signal. Rule-of-thumb is to be within 20 feet of your TV and don't move around much.The setup is easy but no directions come with it except what is displayed on the screen. You'll need to know how to change the input on your TV to the HDMI port for the unit, and know how to connect to a Miracast device in Windows 10 or on your Windows Miracast enabled phone. (Google it.) If you cast from a computer, you'll need the computer wireless connectivity turned on, which it may not be if you use a 'wired' connection. You'll also need to know how to set your display to 'Duplicate' rather than the default, 'Extend' mode. You'll need to remember all this as you may have to remove a nonworking Miracast device and re-add it between uses.For all that, the unit is as advertised. I can cast a perfect media picture from my PC (close by) to my TV. It does not work as a second monitor, though, as there is a lag moving my wireless mouse around. That's part of the 'art' of casting. You may have to experiment with different devices to get what you want. The mouse lag makes using it from the TV screen imposssible. Other mice might work better. My wireless keyboard works perfectly. Since I got this unit specifically and only to cast media, I'm satisfied now.The negative reviews you see for these casting devices, I'm sure, are due to people not understanding the casting process, buying cheap, expecting too much, or not knowing how to set the units up (they all come with lousy directions). Also, like this unit, don't buy one that requires you to push a button on it to change between modes. Once installed on a TV that isn't practical. This unit can be controlled from a downloadable Microsoft app, but unless you have a compatible Windows phone, you don't need anything more than what is in your Windows 10 operating system to set up and control it.There are cheaper units for casting, and many that claim to support multiple modes (Apple, Android, and Windows). Miracast, supported by both Android and Windows, is the most 'touchy', which is why I chose a unit specific to my device, a Windows 10 computer. Not all Miracast units support Windows, or don't support it well, or are just not that good.My recommendation? Don't buy cheap. Don't try to get a unit that says it will do everything. Get one specific to your device, and don't expect all that is advertised for 'casting' from one device to another. This unit, I highly recommend for people casting from a Windows 10 computer to the TV. I don't have a Windows phone, and I'm too cheap to ever buy a top-of-the-line phone or tablet that would have the memory and processing power to try this.