Pc-petrifier Water-based Wood Hardener, 470ml Bottle, Milky White

Works very well used it on woodworm damaged wood and rotten exterior wood. Takes longer to dry then solvent based products but has almost no smell so is brilliant to use indoors. Expensive but goes a long way. Won't be using solvent based hardener indoors ever again.

Great product - works just as advertised - remove loose wood and pour it on, wait until it dries, reapply wait for drying then fill with Dap or the PC product as recommended and finish. Appears to be a diluted water-based glue but works really well - just as advertised.

Ich suchte schon immer einen guten Härter. Ich mache in meiner Freizeit Papier Schmuck, und dafür suchte ich einen guten Härter um meine Schmuckstücke Alltags tauglich zu machen. Mit diesem Holzhärter hat es nach langen ausprobieren mit anderen Produkten endlich geklappt. Er Riecht nicht unangenehm und trocknet sehr schnell

Clean-up Tip for PC-Woody 2-pt epoxy – Wear disposable gloves. Use nail polish remover (acetone based) to clean working tools. (You can also use denatured alcohol). As soon as you’re finished using the 2-pt epoxy, wet a paper towel with nail polish remover and wipe your tools (metal or plastic); the sticky epoxy immediately melts away. In 2010 I first used PC-Woody petrifier and 2-pt epoxy filler to repair a cedar fence post and cedar gate which were splitting. Also, the screws for the gate hinges & latches were loose and falling out due to the cedar softening from old age (26 yrs). I applied 2 coats of the petrifier solution to harden the deteriorated sections and then filled the areas with 2-pt epoxy. Worked great – now 5 yrs later in 2016, the posts and screw holes are still hard as rock and the hinges & latches haven’t budged. In 2011 the fence was painted with 2 coats of water-based exterior solid stain which covered the repaired areas very well; still looks good today. This year my rough-cedar exterior stairs has tiny vegetation growing on top of the top two treads, as well as on top of my cedar picnic table. I have no idea what type of plants they are (could be lichen), but they have bright tiny orange/yellow flowers with short white roots. Warning – get rid of plant growth in wood as soon as you see it! Unfortunately, if left too long the vegetation eats and rots the wood from inside out making it soft and spongy. I sprayed twice with 50/50 bleach & water solution to kill the vegetation and covered the area with plastic to keep out the rain. After the vegetation died, I dug out the soft rotted wood portions, which left huge voids in the treads. I applied 3 applications of PC petrifier which hardened the rotted sections. Using a plastic putty knife/spatula, I filled the voids with PC 2-pt epoxy on 3 different days in order to build up the damaged area and allowed the epoxy to dry 24-hrs between each application. The epoxy is now hard as rock ready to sand and paint. After sanding with coarse-grit sandpaper, I painted using Benjamin Moore water-based solid stain, which covered the repaired areas without any problem. The stain on the repaired areas dried slightly lighter than the wood, but it’s by far a vast improvement over the rot-damaged look. The finished top tread looks a bit rougher in grain texture, rather than totally smooth, but I needed the rest of the epoxy to repair the picnic table. Since the stairs are made from rough cedar, I’m not too concerned, as the wood already has a naturally rough appearance. Time will tell as to whether it will maintain its weight-bearing strength and although the top tread sustained considerable wood rot, it now feels completely solid and safe. For the stairs I used 1 1/3 (16-oz) bottles of petrifier and 1 1/3 (12-oz) cans of 2-pt epoxy; the remainder I used for the picnic table. Overall, I’m very pleased with the finished result and highly recommend PC-Woody petrifier and 2-pt epoxy for similar repairs.

I used this to repair and restore my almost completely mahogany rotten deck railing. I applied it as the simple instructions say, waited the appropriate time (in my case I needed to wait about18 hours for it to "cure" and it provided a hard surface that I could then apply the wood epoxy (same company) to. While it does not absorb the stain to provide the same color as before it really was not a problem for me since the finished product looked even better than I would have liked. After the final wood epoxy dried and I sanded it with the orbital sander, and then stained it, the finished product had "veins" of beautiful almond streaks within the darker "mahogany flame" Cabot stain that I used. I will post a picture here in a bit when I get the time. This product –The PC Products PC-Petrifier really does "petrify" your wood. It absorbs into the wood (first of course, you must clear away any of the truly loose particles and clean up the area that you must eventually fill with filler) after you either spray it on or brush it on (you can even pour it on if you want but I wanted more control so I put some into a spray bottle). Then just let it harden. I put a second application on some parts to make sure. Man, this stuff worked great. I never thought I could restore my railings (I was considering throwing one out) and I am so glad I found this product (and they also have a great wood epoxy). I am now a 100% believer.