PL259 Coax Connectors, 5-Pack PL-259 UHF Male Clamp Connector PL259 UHF Plug ...

This is a copy of the Messi and Paoloni evolution high performance clamp style UHF Male connector (PL259). Thiis isn't an exact copy as there are some subtle differences and I actually prefer these over the more expensive M&P connectors. If you haven't used a clamp style PL 259 then I suggest you give these a try because they eliminate many of the inherent flaws in the 1930s pl259 connector. Once again I'm a retired electronics engineer, I hold an FCC Radio telephone license AKA broadcast license and I've been a ham radio operator for over 40 years. I've used everything from Solder to crimp type RF connectors. These clamp style RF connectors were originally designed for RF laboratory use. At one time they were very expensive, the prices have come down enough that the average ham radio operator can afford to use them and I personally wouldn't use anything but these especially for RG8 - LMR-400 type coax. The machining tolerance on are superb. They assemble easily and unlike traditional pl-259 they are waterproof. These improved clamp style UHF connectors eliminate many of the flaws in the early 1930s design which are really best for a chat but can be used up to 100 megahertz meanwhile these new clamp styles can be used all the way up to at least 900mhz and beyond. This is because they eliminate or significantly reduce the impedance bump normally found in PL 259 type connectors. So if you're a new ham and have a new dual band Radio running two meters and 70 centimeters then this is the connector you want to use. I've ordered quite a few products from this manufacturer and I've been extremely happy with all of them. Tolerances are above average, the plating is well done, these are probably one of the best Copies of the M&P UHF connector there is. My only complaint is that they don't offer them yet for RG-8X Size coax. Keep in mind that these are specifically designed for LMR-400 type coax which has a slightly larger center conductor Then say RG213 or RG8u. With that said you can still use these on RG213 or RG8u but not RG8x type Coax. When used with LMR 400, RG213 or RG8U the center pin is going to be slightly loose, This makes it difficult to solder the center pin straight onto the coax center conductor. The solution to this is to use an X-ACTO knife blade or a tiny pin to slightly spread out the strands in the center conductor. It doesn't take much we're talking a few thousandths of an inch here. You just want to spread them out enough so that the center pin slides on with some friction before you solder it. This will hold it in place and in alignment as you solder it in place You can also crimp the center pin. Crimping the center pin on a stranded center conductor is fine, I wouldn't recommend crimping the pin though on a solid center conductor. The bottom line is I will continue to buy these. Hopefully they'll release a version for 8X size coax

These are so well built that after I put them on a cable and didn't show meter continuity between center to center that I questioned the meter. Installation experience: 1) Compress the braid on the braid compression fitting by pushing on the installed wedge fitting against a stable object. I attempted to send it home using the fitting's own screw compression and it worked one time...but not the next . 2) Don't pre-tin the center cable pin, but pre-tin the center connector pin. Flux both. The LMR400 is a pretty substantial cable and it takes substantial time to reflow solder on the cable. If you: Flux the cable pin, pre-solder the connector pin, reflux the connector, and try to re-heat the connector onto the cable, I was getting progressively better results. Definately better than what I had on these jumpers.

These are excellent quality connectors, and although I would highly recommend purchasing, was a little disappointed they did not come with instructions. Thanks to YouTube, found a couple very good videos that explained in detail the process to install these. After one or two, installation became a breeze. These are awesome... HIGHLY RECOMMEND!!

These connectors are the same basic design as the Messi & Paoloni coax connectors that are more than twice as expensive. The main difference is that the overall connector length is shorter and the metal that these are made from is lighter. These do not come with assembly instructions so if you've never had any experience with the M&P connectors, putting these together will be a serious challenge and not at all intuitive. To start assembly, slip the compression nut, the thinner of the two metal washers and the rubber sleeve over the end of the coax, in that order. Strip 0.393" of insulation off of the coax end being careful not to damage the shield braid. Place the other metal washer over the braid and butt it up against the outer jacket. Now spread the shield braid out and away from the inner foil so that it's completely fanned out on top of the metal washer. Slide the metal ferrule over the coax and insert the shank underneath the shield braid and press it down until it forms a "sandwich" with the metal washer with the shield braid in-between. Carefully trim off all of the exposed shield braid that is sticking out from between the ferrule and the washer. It is important to trim it as flush with the outer diameter of the ferrule and washer as possible. Strip 0.210" of the inner foil and center conductor insulation off of the coax. Be sure that you don't have any of the inner foil intruding on the center conductor after you've stripped it away. Place the small nylon washer over the center conductor and slide it down until it butts against the center conductor insulation. Finally, solder the center conductor pin to the center conductor. The center pin may not be in contact with the nylon washer after you've soldered it, that's OK, but there shouldn't be a large gap between them either. Be sure that the solder flows into the pin cup and you don't end up with a cold solder joint. Note, I don't advise trying to tin the center conductor first as you may have difficulty getting the center pin over it after you've done that and you risk damaging the nylon washer as well. After the solder joint has cooled down, insert the completed end of the assembly into the connector body - the center pin should line up easily with the hole in connector body nylon insulator. Carefully push the connector body down over the center pin until it's fully seated. Note that the end of the center pin will not protrude much beyond the end of the connector. Slide the rubber sleeve, washer, and compression nut into the back of the connector and tighten the nut. Do not overtighten it, the nut likely will not seat flush with the back of the connector, that's OK. Use rubber splicing tape to complete the weatherproofing on the compression nut. Do a quick test to verify no shorting between the center pin and the outer shell and you're done !

I wish these came in other coax sizes as well. These are meant for a LMR-400 or equivalent sized coax. Work great. Easy to install. Reusable, so you save money on fixing coax too. I'd love by some RG8X/U ones, but I don't see them. Way cheaper than Messi and Peloni.

These are the only way to make a solderless connector but you still must solder the center core

I love these connectors. super easy to build up. My new got to for LMR400

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High quality