IMAYCC Bike Motor Kit 80cc Motorized Bike Kit 2 Stroke Gas Bicycle Engine Conversion Kit Fit for 26-28" Bikes (80CC Silver)

I recently purchased and installed this bike engine kit, and despite a few hiccups, I'm ultimately very pleased with the results. The engine itself sounds fantastic. Performance wise, I've had little to no issues since installation. The installation, however, was a bit of an adventure. While the engine itself is relatively straightforward, the included guide book is completely useless. Every comment/review I found recommended skipping it entirely, and I wholeheartedly agree. Save yourself the frustration and head straight to YouTube for a visual walkthrough. A couple of specific installation notes: • Handlebar Hole: The instructions suggest drilling a hole for the throttle cable. I used a center punch, as I do not have a drill. It gave me a clean, precise hole. • Chain Issues: Be warned – the chain that comes with this kit is larger than standard bike chains. My standard chain breaker was completely ineffective. I ended up using my center punch and the spark plug remover from the included tool kit to remove the necessary links. It was a bit of a workaround, but it got the job done. Despite these installation challenges, I'm very happy with the engine. It's powerful, sounds great, and has been reliable. If you're comfortable with a bit of DIY and willing to rely on online resources, this engine is a great value. Tools I used: • Standard Pliers - for nuts • Needle Nose Pliers - for master link • Ratchet with Sockets - for nuts • Phillips Screwdriver - for screws • Center Punch + Hammer - for hole + chain • Allen Keys - for bolts • Tin Snippers - for rubber piece & zip ties • Zip ties - for securing cables • Electrical Tape - for protecting wires *I run standard gasoline + 2 cycle engine oil.

I bought this because my electric bike has distance ceilings that frustrate me and I live in a community with a lot of mountains and I'm not as young as I used to be to get up the hills on my weekend rides or rides with family or friends. I have an EE degree from many years ago so how hard could it be, and I have put together many small engines for my kids when they were growing up. Boy was I wrong, but then who could've assumed the manufacturer didn’t want to include manuals. First off there's no wiring diagram which is dangerous when you're involving a CDI/magneto and gasoline. But the CDI wires (Blue/Blk) are dual(spliced) already with female connector and matching blue/black/white(not used-must seal with elec. tape or should be remove from the magneto altogether you're comfortable doing that but not difficult if you open the casing. So very straightforward as it is logically outlined. Easy Peasy... Unless you get no spark, because then you have no idea if the wires are colored correctly or not because there is no wiring diagram or even installation manual only a parts description those don't describe the wires! So the assumption is blue to blue and black to black, if there's no spark is there a better assumption, what did the manufacturer simply send you add CDI or magneto? How would I know, I don't know where the probabilities lie given this is a brand new unit it's hard to assume that would be the case. I put my meter on it it says the wiring has continuity so why no spark? Unless the black is not ground and instead hot? But no one asked and no diagram to verify. So is the black from the Magneto/CDI hot instead of ground then? Is the spark plug bad? Is the ignition wire bad? Is the magneto/CDI bad? Is the CAD/WRAP in the engine bad? How can you know if you don't have confirmation of wiring to start from? It's all brand new out-of-the-box so I couldn't imagine that the parts are bad, so I guess I could replace the CDI, ignition wire, spark plug, and Magneto together and if there's still no spark then I would know that the wires are colored incorrectly. Are you kidding me? That's the only solution they give us? Wouldn't it be easier to include instruction manual that at least confirms Black wires on the CDI, CAD, and kill switch are all ground? I asked the company for a wiring diagram but no response (except that the white wire should be taped off as it can short the starter and I should go find a YouTube video for wiring specifications of their products from a third party, but not identifying any that would be applicable). Because I am just curious, I'm going to replace the magneto, the CID, the spark plug, ignition wire and the Killswitch from another kit that I just bought and put together and runs perfectly. The two kits and various parts look identical except for their badges,so it looks like the same manufacturer. I'll update on what I find out tomorrow..

For me, after four times with this kit, I'm impressed. My first one was built in early spring last year, and is still going straight and strong. They are very reliable once the little bugs are worked out. It takes a bit of tinkering during break in. Micro adjustments will lessen the stress on motors, which can be fragile because they're not metal. The best mod you can do is put cut pieces of tire inner tube to fit in between the engine mounts and the bike itself. This almost free mod, is the best thing to keep it from vibrating things loose. And a close second is the brakes... If you have to GO! You need the WOAH 😉 If you want more performance, start with better carb and/or an exhaust pipe with expansion chamber. adjusting the clutch . making sure the chain and everything is lined up right. adjusting carb and breaks, all of these things are necessary and very important so that your project will last. It's best for longevity and performance to break in the engine slowly, with a bit of extra oil in the fuel mixture. My personal IMAYCC 80cc procedure is: 30:1 which is 4.3oz of oil per gallon for the first 3 full tanks. Try to vary throttle settings a lot. After the break in tanks, a 40:1 mix is my recommendation for normal use. If a nut/bolt is going to come loose, it usually happens during the break in and "shake down" rides. I use a torque wrench for the important hardware such as engine mounting bolts or chain tensioners I like the size of the tank... Looks average, but is bigger. The small fuel lines get hard and need replaced after a season of riding to prevent leaking next time. They will hold out for quite a while with regular use, but if it sits a lot they will need changed sooner. If the engine seems to be carbonized and sooty, add a couple tablespoons of ATF to the fuel, then run it dry. These kits are awesome! And fun to build! Any questions you could possibly have, are answered easily through a YouTube or Google search. Most 80cc engines have the same processes for maintenance and repairs. Enjoy, Friends 🤠

amazing engine runs like a beautie after building it fired up almost first try, the assembly was pretty easy and it fits almost any bike with a v frame the best part is to install the engine and the worst it the sprocket be careful with the center of the sprocket and the wheel. so it came almost undamaged exept the tank, it was bent but had mo leaks and the box looked deformed I bought a 32 tooth sprocket and I get speeds about to 55 km/h so like 30-35 mph about mixing the fuel and the oil is up to you just add about 5 to 10 caps of oil into there and will run good, about the miles per gallon it's really small I go around 2 weeks at one tank and the tank is pretty big. about the speedometer it worked for like 30 minutes and died and new battery dosent help. I got a problem because of my fault I burned the clutch because I was trying to start from standing without pedaling so I had to buy a new one so I will warn yall that the clutch is not that strong so if your bike is running you will have to pedal first and then let of clutch and the give gas. the choke does not work it only starts on open so I don't use it. the clutch lever is not that good because the lock on it doesn't hold it good enough and it could slip. the chain will loosen a lot so you will need to tighten the tensinor from time to time.breakin in the engine should last about 200 miles.the fuel filter will turn bad in a couple of days and you should probably buy a better one from autoparts so it won't leak. SOME TIPS: when you are assembling your bike and don't know how to get the chain through the engine drive sprocket, just grab a hart tool and the right socket and spin it clock wise and you will get your chain trough when starting your bike you should get some speed give it full throttle and it will start in a couple of tries and you will have to tighten the bolt at the left of the carburator for good running pase. if your bike won't start check your carburator if it has leaks or if the gas is working the the fuel is coming in to the carburator, check the spark plug to check if you have spark you will have to sit on you bike pedal touch your spark with your finger int if is slightly hits you the it means you have spark if not check the wiring and check if it's clipped on to the clam if all of that dosent hel that you should try another spark plug. that's it thanks for reading.

It works pretty well but I can't figure out the throttle and the chain the throttle isn't working on the inside of the carburetor and the chain keeps getting caught into my spokes but I recommend for beginners and middle class it's really good totally worth the $200

From my 13 year old who put it together with me. "The instructions were terrible but after about 10 hours figuring it all out, it rides like a boss". "Goes like 20-30 mph." From Dad- first off, ignore the directions, they are useless. Find a youtube video where someone does it and take your time. Make sure the engine will fit on your frame without hitting the chain and everything else will fit before putting in the detail work. You will probably make some mistakes and have to redo them but it's really satisfying when it fires up. Dad will feel like a kid again. Instructions- 1 out of 5. Unit when it's done 5 out of 5. Note, the kill switch wires will likely be against the muffler and burn so but a heat shield first. The chain guard did not work for us so keep in mind that this thing is pretty dangerous and be very careful with proper setup and while riding. You will also probably need a bike chain breaker to get it the right size. We had to take out 2 links and it was creative with the regular tool made for smaller bicycle chains. It's all quite an experience but you will be a superhero if you can do it!

I saw some review for this saying "don't buy cheap parts dangerous" Well you're wrong dude. You put it together in two hours for the first time when you never did this before because you thought you know everything about this and it's so easy. Then a catastrophic failure happened. But failure is part of the learning process. Don't be discouraged. Get rid of the motor chain tensioner, get one for the pedals instead. Get a steel frame with track forks for the back wheel instead of a dropout. Use loctite. I have seen the head bolts strip out in the crankcase. I like to put them in with red threadlocker so when I'm using the torque wrench to properly install the cylinder head the bottom of the studs don't move at all. It screws everything up especially if one of the head bolts is longer and it bottoms out in the cap nuts. Make sure there's enough washers under the cap nuts on the head that they don't bottom out. I also put the threadlocker on the engine mounts as well. You can see I went for a high compression head and hp carb. I had to get a new intake manifold and bend it so the carb is level. I heated up the manifold with the map gas torch to bend it. You can see so many people install these with the carb cocked forward or back. You are basically building your own motorcycle from scratch. It's not easy at all. Read about this stuff online. Ask people for help. Don't get too excited to go for a ride if you are still working out the problems. I'm still learning things myself. I ride my bike everyday as my car. This is the second engine I bought for this bike. I like to buy a new engine kit rather than rebuild an old one. Much easier, saves time, they are cheap, spare parts. This is one of the better quality motor kits out of all of them that I have had. The computer seems to have a dead battery or something so maybe don't buy this for the computer.

JUnk, Junk, Junk, Did I mention it's junk? Problems right from the start! Got it assembled, fairly easy since I have done 3 similar in the past (not this junk brand) and when I tried it out, the clutch would not engage because the pin they use was not long enough, that took an hour to pinpoint. Went to the farm store and got a bolt, cut it a quarter inch longer and installed it, that lasted for about 8 stop and go cycles and then started to not engage. Pun in a different cut-down bolt and lasted through about 8 cycles and started to not work again. Pulled clutch again and checked engagement rod and discovered that the bottom "lobe" if you want to call it that, of the engagement rod was wore from being a square shape to being rounded after just 16 times of starting the engine. Filled in the edge with the welder and ground it down so it would turn smoothly and assembled it. Got it running and took it for a ride and the muffer decides to split apart, comes off and bounces into the traffic lane where it promptly gets hit by a city bus and flattened, mind you, the engine has been started and ran 17 times and has no more than 3 hours use. I get home, cut the exhaust pipe pipe straight and weld on a lawn mower muffler, get it running and after a dozen or so starts, the clutch is acting up again, tomorrow I will make a new engagement pin out of a Grade 8 bolt and see if it lasts longer. There is no option to contact the seller and since the muffler that came with it is gone, I doubt if they would take it back. Learn from my mistake and keep scrolling past this item, you will be better off as this POS is not worth the time or money.