HiLetgo 2pcs DC 24V 1 Channel Relay Module with OPTO Isolation Support High or Low Level Trigger

Work well. Stable power and switching.

UPDATE: It turns out the power supply I was intending to use this with is pooly-designed, and has a bad habit of fusing relay contacts. This board works very well as intended. See below.This is an initial review after minimal use. Please note I have swapped the relay from the board I bought here (on the left) to the OEM's board (on the right) which was defective.I was hoping this would work as a drop-in replacement for a defective TwoTrees TTC 450 500-watt motor power supply. The relay went kaput after one use/about 24 hours (no idea what caused it because it was working fine last I used it, but later it stopped). It turns out the mounting holes were 0.5mm short on the long axis, so I could only mount it with two screws instead of the intended four (see image). I later realized the two relays were identical in pinout, so I was able to swap the defective one with the one on this board.For those who are struggling with CNC routers that make use of this part, this is worth the money. It definitely helps that it's a two-pack, as well. Fingers crossed this relay won't go kaput on me too.

leds are very bright.

Great quality

All around a supper deal. The only thing not really covered was the relay status LED and what being lit means. Used it in a power lift chair to make a battery backup unit so when power fails (often here due to winds) the battery will be connected so the chair can still be used (24vdc standard in such chairs).

I couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. Seemed to be buggy but I realized that it requires 24V input for the relay to work but it works perfectly.

Does not work says that relay is triggered but multimeter reads 0 and it gets stuck on open even when in is not on

Both of the relay modules work on the normally closed side. When the trigger voltage in not present, the common terminal is connected to the normally closed terminal and, when the voltage is present, the common terminal is not connected to the normally open terminal. But on one of the two the normally open terminal is not connected to the common terminal under any circumstances. The red LED comes on when you apply the voltage and the relay clicks, but no connection is made to the normally closed terminal.On the one that works, the terminal screws are also pretty hard to turn, but that's no deal breaker. The bad unit was made worse by me making a wiring mistake. The mistake made it hard for me to figure out that the unit was defective and the defect made it hard for me to notice my mistake. But eventually I got my circuit working and I now have a leak detector set up to trigger a motorized valve on the inlet to my water heater.