Redding #1 Competition Shellholder Set (11601)

First I want to address the complaints about machining quality. I took measurements with a micrometer, not a caliper, and the message was pretty clear - these are well-machined to strict tolerances. I'm not going to post my measurements because you wouldn't believe me anyhow. Second, these are not really intended for first-time reloaders. Some people learn a lot faster than others, but I only got good at reloading after my first 750 rounds (270, 380 and 6.5). It wasn't always clear to me, but reloading is about consistency. After that finally soaked in, I started buying higher-end brass, and kept a log book to monitor firing cycles, measurements, and powder charges. All that effort led me to start thinking about ways to make the process more efficient - so I searched the internet one day for "graduated shell holders". These absolutely do work, as long as you treat every piece of brass the same. That's why they are called "competition" shell holders. When you are shooting competitively, you start treating your brass like a precision component (I don't shoot competitively, but I treat my brass as if I did). And then these come into the picture. Now you can get close to your ideal measurement, then let the shell holders take you to the exact measurement without all the die work. This really helps save time with die setup is what it comes down to. Finally, the graduations on the die-holders can be deceptive. When it says +.01 on the shell holder, that actually means .01 *less* than a standard shell holder (which is .125" shell holder depth). The +.008 shell holder is .008" less than the standard shell holder depth... ect. That's why you start with the +.01 shell holder first. Hope this helps someone. 10 out of 10.

These things allow you to precisely set shoulder bump on your cases in order to achieve the optimum headspace for cartridges in your rifle. They provide reduced shoulder bump in .002" increments from what you get with a standard shell holder in your reloading press. This is normally not required, but to wring the most accuracy out of your rifle they can be quite helpful. They are well made and quite precise. I checked mine with a high quality depth micrometer when I received them and found them to be dead nuts on to 3 decimal places. The directions are included with the shell holders. They are simple and concise and produce the results advertised.

Absolutely the greatest thing to come out. No more guessing how little of a turn to make on the die. Just go by the numbers. This is a reloading MUST, IMO.

I'm sure that most people that are interested in these shellholders already know what they are generally for but for those who don't, they are mainly for bumping the shoulders back on fired cartridge case/sheel so to it as close to the fire formed dimensions as possible but still insuring easy chambering of reloaded. This minimizes the work hardening of the brass since they are being minimally worked thus extending brass life (assuming that you are not annealing). As for review, not really much to say as they are Typical Redding high quality and work exactly as intended.

Get rid of the lock and load bushings and screw down your dies for cam over. Set and forget (assuming the same rifle). Use these to set headspace. Perfect.

100% recommend, you'll never need to adjust your dies ever again! And very consistent shoulder bump every time...seriously the time and hassle these shell holders save you is worth it alone. Another great Redding product.

Easy to use. Packaged really well.

Buyer beware! Believe the negative reviews! This product is a great idea, but apparently Redding is resting on their laurels and is doing zero quality control. After sizing several .308 cases (twice fired, annealed Federal brass), using my Redding body die on my RCBS single stage press, measuring with my Mitutoyo calipers and Hornady comparator, following Redding's directions, I got NO DIFFERENCE in case length between ANY of the Competition Shellholders. The thickness differences between shellholders is supposed to be .002", but varies between roughly .001" to .003". Some have a taper of about .001" from left to right, too. Measured with my Mitutoyo micrometers, from the top of the shellholder (where it contacts the bottom of the sizing die) to the "deck" (where the case head sits), I got the following measurements: .010 shellholder: .1362" .008 shellholder: .1330" .006 shellholder: .1317" .004 shellholder: .1298" .002 shellholder: .1276" Some quick math will tell you the difference in thickness ranges between .001" and .003". Between the "10" and the "8", the difference is .003". Between the "8" and the "6", the difference is .001". The "6", "4", and "2" are closer to .002", and between the "10" and "2", the overall difference is about .009", which is close to what it should be (.008"). In use, maybe after the first sizing (following Redding's directions, starting with the "+.010" shellholder), the case work hardens a bit, so going to progressively thinner shellholders and trying to get exactly .002" increments is just never going to happen. The haphazard quality of the shellholders doesn't help, either. In the end, I get repeatable results (give or take about .001") using a regular shellholder and screwing my Redding sizing die in and out "a bit at a time", using a few "throwaway" cases to set it up. Once set up, I can then size a batch of cases, and they all come out +/- about .001" or .0015". Close enough, and I could've saved $80. YMMV, and maybe with "quality" brass you'll have better results. Just keep in mind that Redding's quality control is haphazard, and these shellholders aren't the size indicated.

Very helpful tool to ensure brass is bumped no more than 2 thousands of inch.