Vinyl Fabric & Plastic Repair Flexible Adhesive, Clear, 1 oz Tube, 1 Pack

I accidentally brushed up against a rose thorn bush, and much to my dismay it tore a small part of the arm in my leather jacket! It's a genuine leather (technically sheep skin) jacket from Emporio Armani. I was able to repair it to my satisfaction (see pics), and so far the glue seems to hold well while being flexible, and I'm happy with how the seam was closed up. I did some research prior to purchasing this, so I'll list the steps I took below. One thing that I saw some reviewers mention is that the glue melted away some of the fabric they were working with (but I believe they were using faux leather). This was not the case when I used it on real leather, so I would recommend this product for anyone with a similar use case to mine. Here are the steps: Materials needed: (1) Loctite Vinyl Plastic Adhesive Glue (this amazon listing) (2) A palette knife (I bought this one and used the smallest one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072P1R5B7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) (3) A piece of thin, flexible fabric that is a bit larger than the size of the tear you're working with. (e.g. if you have a 10mm diameter hole, the piece of fabric you use should be at least 14-18mm diameter). Doing research online, the most commonly recommended material was "organza fabric", which is very thin, strong, and most importantly mimics the flexibility of leather. This is what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0842WZB2H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you have any thin flexible fabric laying around, it should work. Just keep in mind that organza is super thin which is nice. If you use a material that is too thick, it may cause the area around your tear to appear stiffer than the rest of your jacket, and so you'll end up seeing an outline of the fabric. (4) A Q-Tip (5) Tape (e.g. masking tape) which is gentle, easy to remove, and does not leave residue. It will touch your leather, so make sure it's not too strong so it doesn't damage the leather when you remove it. (6) Acetone / Nail Polish Remover (not mandatory, but I HIGHLY recommend you keep it handy so you can either fix a mistake, but also it allows you to clean up your edges for a sharp/tight seam). (7) Scissors (to cut the organza fabric and to possibly trim the tear to clean it up if needed) (8) Toothpick Steps: (1) Protect the area surrounding your tear by putting masking tape. This is important because you don't want your glue to accidentally land on some other part of your jacket! (2) Get your organza (or other flexible, thin fabric) piece ready. Trim it to size if needed. Make sure it is bigger than the tear itself. Details: This piece is going to be a subpatch / "sub patch". The way jackets work is that on the outer side is the actual leather material, but on the opposite side of the leather (the side your body touches when you put it on) is a different type of flexible fabric that is not leather. That fabric is stitched/attached to the leather at various points on the jacket, but on a majority of the jacket it is not. What we DO NOT want to do is glue the leather to the fabric that came with the jacket. That's not how the jacket was originally designed, and doing so could cause you to tug on the leather when you move around because now the inside fabric will be glued to the leather. That's why we instead get a piece of organza fabric and use that as a subpatch which will serve as a substrate on which the glue will be applied, and then the torn leather will be glued to the subpatch. The subpatch is a meeting place for where the torn piece of the leather meets with the original untorn portion of the leather, and going forward will remain between the leather and the original inside fabric forever. The sub patch should NOT be glued to the inside fabric. It should only be glued to the leather. (3) Using the palette knife and a toothpick if needed (or even your fingers if the tear is big enough), gently slide the subpatch underneath the tear. In other words, stick the subpatch into the tear, and then flatten out the subpatch so that when you look through the hole/tear in your jacket, the only thing you see is the subpatch. (4) Open the loctite vinyl glue. DO NOT open it over your jacket. Open somewhere else to the side. When I opened it for the first time (where you have to pierce it using the cap), a little bit oozed out everywhere...good thing it wasn't over my jacket! Now, using your finger, a Q tip, and/or a toothpick (or whatever method you're comfortable with), gently apply a thin layer of the glue onto the subpatch. In other words, gently lift the tear to expose the subpatch that you placed underneath, and apply the glue. A thin layer is all you need. (5) Gently close the tear and press it onto the subpatch. Try to line up the tear as well as you can so the seam is as invisible as possible. If you want, you can add a tiny bit of the glue (super thin layer) directly over the seam to make it extra snug and secure. Then, apply a tiny bit of acetone (nail polish remover) on a q tip and do a few gentle, light strokes over the excess glue on the seam. This will clean up the excess glue so that only the glue that has fallen through the cracks between the seam will remain. (6) Optionally apply masking tape onto the tear itself so it doesn't accidentally open up again during the drying/curing process. I didn't end up doing this because by the time I finished steps 1-5 above, it was already stiff enough that I wasn't worried.. (7) Remember how I said that you DO NOT want the sub patch to be glued to the inside fabric of your jacket? Well, be sure to look on the inside of your jacket and make sure this isn't the case! The organza subpatch fabric is porous, so in my case some of the glue made it to the opposite side of the subpatch and caused it to adhere to the inside of my leather jacket. Good thing I had immediately checked, because the solution was super simple: I just put a bit of acetone on a Q-tip and rubbed it over the the inside fabric (from the inside of my jacket) where it was accidentally adhered. I gently rubbed and pulled until the subpatch was separated from the internal fabric. (8) Let the glue cure...Loctite's instructions recommend 24 hours. I waited about 18 hours before putting the jacket back on.... and it works great!

I used this on a blow up pool toy float ring, that my granddaughter adored. It somehow got a pin hole on a hard crease (see photo) where a traditional rubber patch would have no chance of properly covering or adhering to. Although it probably would have cost about the same to just replace this float toy she loved it quite a bit, so I opted to try and repair it. The purchase of the Loctite Vinyl Fabric & Plastic Repair Flexible Adhesive was made two months ago and the experiment began. Another reviewer here stated they opened up the small hole a little to allow for a narrow probe to enter through it to add some of the adhesive to the inside, which I did. I then coated the outside over the "wound" with the adhesive and allowed it to dry. A couple hours later I added another coating and allowed that to dry. A few days later when we had the wee one visit she was excited to use her "favorite crab" (not sure what it is to be honest) to float in the pool with again. She has used it several times as the summer months wane and it has not sprung a leak. I am very satisfied with this product.

This is the only glue that really holds on my alternating pressure pad air mattress. It bonds almost instantly so I can just patch and keep using the mattress as I'm bedridden and can't be without one. My air mattress is all vinyl

My favorite totes rain jacket that you can’t get anymore, looked all over and I can’t replace it, so I desperately wanted to glue it, but never had good luck with glues. I hate super glue and never have been able to glue anything with it but my fingers. Did a search and found this glue, because I think the material of this jacket is some kind of a plastic, very similar to the rain capes that people get. When you puncture the top of the glue be careful because it blurbs out. I had to wipe that off my jacket quickly. I use a popsicle stick and spread the glue on one side and laid the other side over top of it and you have to work quickly because it starts melting the fabric and sticking it together. I flattened it down as best I could with the popsicle stick, and then spread masking tape over the rip, like they said on the box. I was afraid the masking tape would adhere to the jacket, but when I checked in two hours, it came right up so I laid it back down for overnight and in the morning took off the tape, but I’m gonna let the jacket set for two days so it can cure. The jacket has a wrinkly affect so the tear site blends in really well. I am really impressed with this glue and I have hope that this is going to work out because it looks like it’s really glued together. I went and tried taking a metal magnet that I’ve been trying to glue to a refrigerator ornament for years and I’m going to try this out and see if it works, I hope so . I also noticed that the jacket right now seems to be soft and pliable, which most glues are always hard and stiff feeling so that’s really impressive. Don’t hesitate to try this for your projects. I’m leaving a picture here of my jacket!

Do you remember rubber cement? Us old folks still do. If you can still get it in the awful way it used to come, it should be outlawed. It came in brown bottles, just in case the sheer reek didn't make it seem like enough of a chemical. You opened the cap and there was a brush mired in the stuff that would later end up as just a big rubbery ball with bristles sticking out as time went on. And the glue itself just became more stubborn over time. Pulling that brush out would become an almost comical tug of war. And it dried ugly. Like rubbery brown snot. But it was indispensable. We didn't have a lot of money growing up, and patching anything up was usually easy. Except for raincoats, rubber boots, sneakers, anything that had to be flexible and waterproof. That's when dad went crazy with the rubber glue. Layers and layers of that brown stuff smeared 10 times the size of the hole or tear he was patching. This Loctite is so much better. First, no awful brown dried result. Application is a breeze and it stays that way through the entire container. I still will let the patch dry and add more around the edges and top as reinforcement (thaaaaanks, dad), but it doesn't build up into a horrid mess. I use this and one other flexible adhesive for those specific needs. I did find an old bottle of rubber cement out in the garage the other day. I got the cap off, but the brush stayed in the bottle. I got pliers to pull the brush out and ended up in that stupid tug of war, laughing myself silly.

I had a few plastic and vinyl items to repair. A car key with a plastic top, dropped one too many times; a torn in one place (but nice) scroll type black rubber door mat and some small to major rips in a vinyl chair seat. This product worked the best on the rubber door mat and I would buy it again for that purpose. I had used others that didn't work. There was a suggestion to put tape across the bottom of the "scroll" piece that was ripped, apply the glue, wipe of any excess and then tape it up for a few hours until it dried. That was a good idea, resulting in a strong and imperceptable repair. Not so successful on keeping the plastic key together or vinyl chair repair. I might use it in combination with one of those "really strong" little applicator type glues on my keep. The fact that this glue is good for "flexible" things did help. But like the glues that dry brittle, it just didn't help enough. Will have to reglue the key any day. I will go with a vinyl repair kit for my vinyl repairs. This glue is more of a "liquid" than a "gel" and it was very hard for me to use successfully (and it look okay) on the vinyl chairs. This glue was good for the rubber door matt, but I'm thinking that there are better glues out there for vinyl, fabric and plastic repairs. I would use an iron on type adhesive before I would put this on fabric. Its messy. Hope that helps.

I always keep a couple of tubes of this on hand in my camper. It’s perfect for quick repairs on boots, waders, and other gear when you’re out and about. The adhesive is strong, flexible, and completely watertight, making it ideal for outdoor and wet conditions. Depending on how big the hole is, you might also want to have some patch material with you for extra reinforcement, but for small to medium holes this stuff works great on its own. A real lifesaver to have in your repair kit.

I recently purchased a vintage Devon mug coaster, which is made of olefin carpet and felt with a rubber back. When I received it, it was strongly smelling of mildew, so I cleaned it in the washer. But during the cycle, the carpet got damaged on a couple of sides, and the felt also unglued from the carpet. This loctite glue was extremely easy to use, not messy and you can't tell where the damage was. It brought it back to like new condition. Excellent product for these materials.

Perfect to repair the SUP ,hold pressure

Effectively stuck Velcro to vinyl. Will have to wait and see how the flexibility is after a period of time

Wow this glue brand is truly one of the best there is! I split the hole in my dolls head and needed a strong adhesive that would tackle vinyl material! It easily comes out of the tube clear and a good consistency, I just smoothed it over the cracks and left drying, which later left a strong bond but still flexible enough for me to work on adding a ball joint cap etc to finish my connection of doll parts! Highly recommend for rubbers, vinyl materials that need a little stretch it works well with them!

This glue worked perfectly.

served my purpose.