Electric Starter Motor Kit for Honda GX160 GX200 5.5HP 6.5HP - Electric Start Conversion with Flywheel, Key Switch, and Coil - 12V Starter Motor for 4-Stroke Engines

Solid flywheel, starter and kit in general. Was really happy with this kit except that it cannot be used with a Predator 224 or the 212 hemi. If you shave the fan down it will work with the 224 but that's a bit of a gamble. The 212 hemi has a different size and taper on the crankshaft so the flywheel won't work. The problem is with Harbor Freight not labeling their 212 engines as hemi or not hemi. You have to buy it and open the box to find out...(pro tip if your valve cover is stamped shiny steel it's not a hemi, if it's dull cast aluminum it's a hemi). Anyhow the kit is actually excellent and priced really low so I'm giving it 5 stars. I actually ordered two of these and I'm keeping them both I'll just make sure to buy a pair of non-hemi Predator 212's. The installation video from the seller is hilarious, and explains why this kit didn't come with instructions. YouTube has plenty of installation videos.

This kit bolted right up to a non-hemi predator 212. No instruction provided but is easy to figure out. Only one modification needed was the plastic cooling fan needed one of the plastic pins cut off to fit new flywheel. Installed in less than an hour. Even with trying to figure out where everything was supposed to fit. All bolts included worked perfectly tho the included bolts have 10mm head while the factory bolts are 8mm head. Note: No battery cables included, will need a set of battery cables.

The pump on my transfer tank can now start without pulling the rope.

Items did not fit my Briggs and Stratton Engine. Coil pack holes do not line up. Starter does not bolt to engine

The 212cc Hemi typically has a thick cast aluminum valve cover. The spacers are not needed for the flywheel that I can tell. I had to use a puller on the original. Some videos just show using a rubber mallet. Since this is for a Honda clone Predator, a couple of things weren't the same. The plastic blower fin base pins don't all line up, so, I had to cut one off. (make sure you cut the right one off.) The recoil threaded holes only line up with two threaded holes. So, you need to bolt and nut the recoil and the one hole on before you mount the whole cover. The starter, appears to have a slight adjustment on the bottom hole. I pulled the starter away from the flywheel while tightening the bolt, hoping to allow more clearance since some mention grinding? I have yet to check everything because I ordered another charging coil or stator, for the bottom inside the flywheel. I ordered a voltage regulator since the output on the coils is A/C. I ordered a Chinese voltage regulator for a small engine, that appears to have the same color wires. This is if you want to charge a battery using 12 volts DC The A/C would only be for lights.I would advise using blue locktite (not red) on the bolts for the coils and starter since these seem to be loose threads. A few of he ones that came out had what appeared to be a white thread lock on them. I doubt it was corrosion. Again, The Hemi version of the Predator 212cc engine has had a cast aluminum valve cover NOT STEEL. I don't know if they still stock the Hemi or build them the same way or why they use different part numbers on the other nearly identical ones. But watch the numbers on the box and ask when you buy it. This flywheel has been said NOT to work on the Hemi version and the Kohler ones reportedly don't fit right on either.

Easy to install. Came with all the hardware . Wiring was simple. Could use a fan in the kit.

Worked great, only issue i had is the switch box. No fuse, "Circuit breaker" is just for show, and key switch failed is an unusual way. Running great, killed engine with key. After restarting engine, is ran extremely rough and acted like dirty carb. cleaned car several times and found nothing wrong. disconnected kill wire and engine ran correctly. i pulled the key switch apart and found the "Brass" contacts had rubbed a metallic track across the two contacts. no grease was used in switch and the brass platting rubbed a conductive path. replaced key switch and all was good. good kit for the price, junk electrical box.

Well not exactly an OEM replacement. The starter motor itself at times, (cold engine) is not strong enough to kick over the engine, so it needs a pull start. The switch module has phony or missing components inside. There is nothing behind what should be a breaker/fuse button. There’s no wiring diagram so colors and end fittings don’t match original. Other parts are okay, they work I suppose. Barely passed muster.