Door Lock Actuator Motor Front Left Driver Side | for Toyota 4Runner Camry Tundra Sequoia, Lexus ES350 GS350 LS460 RX450h, Scion tC xB xD | Replaces# 69040-0C050, 69040-06180, 931-401

It's perfect in my 2011 Toyota Tundra front passenger side. Fairly simple install but you will have to take the window bracket loose in order for the install which it is just a few screws. No big deal. Definitely worth the money and works great

Installed easily, don’t forget to make sure the shaft for the outside door handle is in place. Working great so far.

Difficult to get door panel off and on. More difficult to put lock inside of door and I have little hands, but it works good.

This actuator was a perfect replacement fit for my 2013 Toyota Camry. Installation only took around 20 minutes. It seems pretty durable and hopefully it will last for the next 10 years. It’s a great value as it’s half the cost of OEM part.

I suspect the quality is inconsistent with this manufacturer. Others seem to have no issue. However, mine almost left me stuck with being unable to open the door manually from outside or inside. It was someWhat ok for a few days. (The ‘somewhat’ is described below) The lock was installed by a skilled and trusted mechanic. His comment was that the entire actuator unit would not line up with latch pin quite right. The door would stay shut after slamming it harder than I normally would. After a few days passed the door would not unlatch from the inside our outside handle. Luckily, after fiddling with the remote lock and unlock for a few minutes, the handle released the door open. I’m not sure if the actuator mechanism ‘unstuck’ itself somehow. Needless to say, it would have been a massive headache to fix if I didn’t get lucky. I imagine that the door panel would have to be ripped open with a latched door to access the broken actuator. This would likely destroy the panel and require a new one. My suggestion is that you purchase the OEM unit instead from Amazon. It was $100 more, but it installed perfectly, lined up perfectly, and operates with 0 issues. With a little research, you’ll find it on Amazon. It’s roughly $130. I compared it to the cheap unit and OEM. The cheap unit looks and feels substantially worse than the OEM/$130 unit.

Wasn’t an exact fit but worked non the less and way way cheaper than oem.

First of all do a search for undoing a Toyota door panel. You’ll see how it’s really not rocket science to switch out an actuator. But then you’ll see how there’s not a gull durn thing about the 2nd gen Highlander 2009-2012’s panel removal. I’ll try to wake you through but you own responsibility for damage. First get those plastic panel vehicle tools; they make things easier for tinkering. Remove the plastic cover where the side mirror rests. So it from the window side. Pop loose the plastic cover behind the inside door handle to expose the 10mm/Phillips screw & remove. Pop open the brown faux wood trim from the top which is held by plastic tabs. They reveal two Phillips screws, the other two of the three that anchor the door panel. The lower screw is deep inside a tunnel. Return to the juncture of the panel on the mirror side. Wedge your tool between the door and panel and begin popping loose the retaining tabs and then you can grab beneath the panel popping along the bottom, up the right side past the actuator, then along the top. I kinda lifted some while pulling out and the panel comes free. The actuator is anchored by 3 Torx screws. Tinkerers, get a set here because they’re used on most cars. Undo and place in a safe spot. There is plastic to carefully pull away from the door. Unplug the unit by the one set of power plugs that is secured by a tab you push in and then pull. Examine your new actuator. There are two cables that fit into that plus one metal rod that fits BEHIND the actuator. I didn’t know about that rod so reach around to feel it behind the old one you’re about to remove. Jiggle the actuator to slide that metal rod free and you’ll have to twist the unit clockwise to free it from the metal ridge inside the door. Lift it free and it still is attached by the two cables. Examine from YouTube videos of the older Highlanders and how the old actuator holds the two cables. Open the black plastic tab to expose the ball shaped end. Pop each cable free of the unit’s body. Rotate the ball end 1/4 turn to unlock. The second has thin metal shank that is Z shaped. Carefully free that as well. Attach the Z shaped end and then the ball end of those cables and anchor them to the body of the new unit. This is the part that I had forgotten when installing: reach in to find that heavy steel rod that attaches to the outer door handle. That end goes into the white plastic hole of the arm of the new actuator. Once you’ve slid it through, lift the actuator unit and swing it back around that ridge and set it into place and hand screw the 3 Torx screws. MAKE SURE to plug the unit with the power cable (I forgot that too lol). Test that the unit operates by remote and power buttons. Wait to manually lock and unlock the button for now. Also check to make sure that the latch is properly ready. It’s the black swing arm that latches your door. Mine was closed and when I tried shutting the door it didn’t latch. Pull the outside handle which I think opened the latch. Tighten all Torx screws. Check once more that there’s power before reattaching the door panel. Go in reverse to assemble and then test. Mine on a 2011 Limited Highlander works flawlessly now. All operations are retained, from manual locking to using the power buttons, the remote and also the automatic unlock when you walk up and put your hand inside the outer handle. You can’t beat the price and value. I’ve saved hundreds by doing the homework and having the patience to DIY!

Works great, and saves a lot of money

The dealer wanted $ 300 plus labor for this part. It's identical to the one I took out of my 2016 camry. Did the job myself no special tools required. Perfect fit. Works excellant. Very very happy

Funcionó a la perfeccion

One by one, each of the 4 automatic door locks on our 2013 Toyota RAV4 had stopped working. My husband frequently drives this vehicle on gravel roads and, over a period of years, the door lock actuators had become clogged up with dirt and dust. Fixing each door lock at the dealership would have been over $500 per door. As each door lock stopped working, my husband would watch a few YouTube how-to videos, and then remove the door panel, remove the door lock actuator, carefully open up the door lock actuator box, clean the dirt & corrosion, and then re-assemble. No cost, but a very arduous process taking 4-6 hours per door. When the front passenger door lock actuator stopped working a second time a year or so after being cleaned, we discovered that you could buy these low-cost replacement parts. It was easy to find the right part to order, and he installed it in less than an hour. Well worth the cost for the part, and it works great! UPDATE August 2023: This part failed after 2 years and we are having to re-order a new part and replace it. Even if this part only lasts 2 years, it’s still worth it to replace it yourself, given how expensive it is to have it done at the dealership.

I assembled on my corolla 2013 works perfectly, just bring it to a professional mechanic don’t do it yourself I think people struggling didn’t assemble right

I know this product has lots of great reviews, but I didn’t have a good experience with my left/right actuator. The driver side wouldn’t lock after installed ( and yes, it was installed correct). It made noise when I tried to lock the door, like the motor wasn’t switching over to lock the door. So I re installed the factory actuator. And the right side locks/unlocks, But only with the key fob. When I try to use the keyless entry by using my hand to unlock, nothing happens. And it seems like the cables aren’t tight enough because the lock doesn’t change when you lock/unlock it by hand. I know they cost ALOT more, but I’ll be ordering the OEM ones and returning these.