8 pin 10A Relay

For non critical home and auto projects these are a good option. Totally no frills (well they DO have an LED), with no kickback suppression built in and the LED is polarity sensitive. Wire Positive to 8 (Right side) and negative to 7 (Left Side). Use your own Kickback Suppression diodes (I like 1n4007 or Mallory PTC 205 for this application) Some engineers use a capacitor but I'm old school and like the diode.Pros:#1 - Super affordable, at least for now, these relays come branded with several gibberish names, they are all the same so far. Cheap no name relays (that work well short term, maybe even long term)#2 - Good features, LEDs are easily visible#3 - Work as well as Idec, Allen-Bradley, etc at a tiny fraction of the price.#4 - Come with Decent sockets, a 3 relay wide piece of Aluminum DIN rail, even screws to fasten your DIN Rail with!Cons:#1 No top mechanical indicator flag, there's a window for one, but no flag, they are 2 very tiny windows (non-frosted areas) on each side right at the contacts, but those are almost impossible to see once in a panel.#2 - No internal suppression on DC models - you get all sorts of stuff included, but sadly, no suppression diode.#3 - Polarity sensitive LED, don't follow convention here, check. (ask me how I know)#4 - Cheap no name relays - NOT to be used for critical applications. Don't use this as a control for a heater or something that can burn down a building or otherwise risk life or property. They work OK for now, I've had some in service for a month or more with no issues, but long term, who knows?#5 May not be available later, Be kind to the next tech (you?) and leave a couple spares in the panelbox.All told I managed to justify 5 stars, the negatives, none of which is horrible, are made less of an issue by the price. As time grows I gain confidence in these, but I won't be controlling any hazardous devices with them, and don't advise you to either. That being said, upon close examination, they seem to be built the same as the brand name ones, with nothing visually alarming. I do wonder what the contacts are made of (but they appear "standard"), and if the coil is actually copper (it's soldered in place and seems to weigh enough that I'd expect it is indeed real copper, not "CCA" (Copper Clad Aluminum" - the bane of electrons and their keepers worldwide))All up, these are a great product for the hobbyist (Or financially strapped small company) to use in intrinsically safe equipment controls.I owned and operated a small Industrial controls business before I retired, and have been using relays since the '70's - just so you know I'm not new to the product.PS an Idec, PB or AB relay like this would run $20 to $50+ depending on where and how many you buy.(Please don't judge my panel, it's a work in progress (but operating) and isn't dressed out yet)

The din rail makes for easy installation. Worked well for a pump monitoring system.

Great relays for light duty switching. I am using these on an electronic project and they work great.

I wanted to give these relays a 5 star but after a few days in service 4 of the 6 units died. I'm using these in a Christmas light controller that's cycling about 20 - 30 times a minute, so they're being well used. I took one apart and found that the wire connecting the contacts had broken (looks like the insulation and most of the wire was cut with an xacto knife) the wire was broken at the cut. I soldered it back together and put it back into service. after repairing the others, they are all functioning now. The Base feels pretty solid and the mounting rail is pretty nice. I ordered the 10amp version, but they seem a little bit too light weight for 10amps. The LED's are really nice feature, I added a window in the control housing which makes a neat little display by itself :) Overall I was pleased with this purchase. These relays worked well in my project. Just know that quality control is pretty much non-existent here, but if you're comfortable with a soldering iron these are an inexpensive solution.

Easy to install and wire up relays have been operating flawlessly since installation

I finally got them to work, but it required effort to figure out how they are wired. I had never used a relay before, and had to teach myself how they worked. Notice in pictures that the markings of the terminal numbers are reversed from whta is shown on the base. For example, on the base, 14 is on the left, but on the ice cube drawing, 14 is on the right. The base has the even numbers on the left, but the ice cube has the even numbers on the right. That, I found out, is because the diagram shows the relative positions of the terminals while looking at the base turned uoside down. Once I figured that out, it was very easy to use the relays to solve my problem which was trying to get two thermostats to run a single zone valve in my heating system. It works quite well.

Bought this one. Received in very good condition. I like the LED light that is on when the coil is on. Did a quick test to check if the speed to switch from one 120v power to another. My computer can survive without rebooting during switch. My computer's power supply is complaint to the standard EPS1U that requires the minimal hold-up time of 17 milli-seconds (not sure how long the hold-up time actually is). I do not know how fast this replay can do but fortunately it is fast enough to do a switch transfer before my computer's power supply hold-up finishes. I did multiple switch tests. All without any problem so far. Happy with it for now. Decide to buy one pair again to complete my fancy 3 dpdt relay automatic transfer switch.update: I completed my auto transfer switch that can switch between two power sources with a switch to control any one of the power source should be used as preferred one when electricity is on on both two sources. Have used it for a few months now without any problem. Only one time, the 10A inline fuse holder is broke (not the fuse) but the relays are good. (I probably should not use the plastic inline fuse holder to hold a 10A fuse on 120v power. I switched to use only 5A fuse and limit the current between 2A to 3A most of the time. Looks good.I bought one more pair to build two simple auto transfer switch for my TV, and other electronics. Looks good.

If using this relay and socket, LOOK AT THE BOTTOM of the socket, the terminal screw locations are not the same as most "nema" relay sockets as used in the U.S.. Be sure to wire correctly. Used tis for a "hot unit lock-out" relay on my air compressor