Riding the Iron Rooster: By Train Through China

Theroux shares with us many of the experiences he had as he traveled all through the different parts and different trains of China and also gives colorful, often laugh-out-loud commentary to accompany these experiences. Of course he retells his experiences with normal people he meets along the way, but he has a knack for landing interviews with some interesting high-society socialites and politicians and sharing these as well. These interviews - if recounted correctly - give a very interesting view of the state of China right before it really begins its dramatic rise to power in the 1990s. Especially of interest was Theroux's seeming obsession with the Cultural Revolution and gathering people's accounts and feelings about it. Some of these accounts are very fascinating.However, as the title indicates, these oases of fascinating accounts are often littered with somewhat dull accounts that made the book feel too long (in fact at nearly 500 pages for the paperback version, I might argue it WAS too long). Some parts dragged and at that point I would check what percentage I was finished (read it on Kindle) and couldn't believe how long it took to progress even 1%. I found myself doing a skimming/skipping combo at these parts. Particularly from about halfway through the book until the concluding Tibet part it seemed to take a long time. On that, the concluding part on getting to Tibet and Tibet itself was one of the more interesting parts, and probably saved this from being a two-star review.Also, maps should have been added to the book. It became very confusing to understand where he was journeying which may have defused the ability to imagine yourself riding and experiencing 1980s China with him. Perhaps there is a map in the paper copy, but in the Kindle version, no such map is readily accessible. This could be one of the reasons that it seemed to drag at parts; you start to get the "why should I care?" feeling about the writing.People particularly interested in China - particularly a close-up, qualitative, at times very humorous look at Chinese society during the transition period of agricultural collective to the economic powerhouse - will perhaps enjoy this more relaxed account of a foreigner traveling in China as it is. But there are other books you should probably read first if you want something a little more serious (for example "My First Trip to China: Scholars, Diplomats and Journalists Reflect on their First Encounters with China").For people with just a mere passing interest in China, it is too bad there is not an edited-down 200-300 page version. That would be more enjoyable. In its current state, I would say skip it or be prepared to skip parts.

Yes, I am a Paul Theroux fan. And proud of it. I might not want to sit across from him on a train or bus or plane but I can sink back into his travel books and not look up for hundreds of pages. Have I read this before? Yes, of course. Many times. And so should you. He doesn't serve as the press arm for a travel junket so we get the real raw look in through the window. He's hilarious in his insults--but that's not just for China and the Chinese people. He's unbiased in his open dislike of his fellow travelers. Maybe he's changed now--but this book captures his outright loathing and disgust in open glory. (''Everyone hawked, everyone spat, sometimes dribbling, sometimes in a trajectory that ran like candlewax down the side of a spittoon. . . . They walked scuffingly, sort of skating, with their arms flapping, with narrow jogging shoulders, or else hustling puppetlike, with their limbs jerking. They minced, they plodded, they pushed, keeping their hands out - straight-arming their way -and their heads down. They could look entirely graceless -unexpected in Chinese.'')The NY Times said: "Riding the Iron Rooster'' is Mr. Theroux's account of a journey that would drive most people insane." Glad he took and I can read about it.

Paul Theroux is a master writer and this observation is a very entertaining read. His journey begins in Europe as he takes the transAsiatic train to an area where he can turn south and pass through Mongolia and eventually into China where the true subject of the book begins; suffice to say the reader is in for a major treat.Theroux passes through the most significant regions of China; his descriptions, particularly of his fellow passengers will delight some and almost anger others. As any readers to Theroux's books know he does not query his verbiage when describing the people in whose country he is passing through. He is at his best when describing the passengers with whom he must share his cabin or his dining room car.The reader cannot but realise that Theroux is confronted frequently by references to the Cultural Revolution and Mao's death throughout the journey in China; both of these tumultuous events had occurred in resent Chinese history. He makes no apologies for his distaste of both; they form a stage curtin for his entire journey.Consequently I found his descriptions of his final destination, Tibet, to be sweet, dare I say when dealing with Teroux's written language virtually beautiful to the extent you might need to return to the passages for a re-read. This Theroux book is worth putting aside, leaving for some years anthem returning; it is that good

I read this book some years ago and decided to reread it after recently reading Theroux’s book, Dark Star (which I highly recommend). Of course China (& the rest of the world) has changed since Theroux wrote this, but good writing is good writing. My only beef is that in the Kindle edition I am reading, there are so many spelling errors!! It’s quite distracting.

This book gave very insightfull examples of life during Cultural Revolution and the overall way of life. Now I don't need to go there.

This is an outsider's look at little slices of China in the '80's through the windows of the Iron Rooster and other China trains. Theroux spends a year traveling to and around China and Tibet, almost exclusively by train. Although at times he comes off as an arrogant and condescending American ass, mostly his love of China and its people comes through with flying colors. Sprinkled with humor, factual information and personal observation, this book is a great read for anyone who is either interested in either China or travel. I loved the book and am going to find more written by Theroux, since this was my introduction to his writing.

This book was written as a travelogue, but it now serves as an excellent way of understanding China thirty years ago. The journey described in the book took place in 1987/88, a crucial time in the development of China, when it was transitioning from a poor country to the power it has now become. At times the China Theroux describes is barely recognisable to the modern reader, a testament to how much the country has changed.The book is very well written. The descriptions of places and people are excellent. The conversations he has with fellow passengers, and with others such as officials assigned to 'help him', give the book real depth.

Having enjoyed 'The Old Patagonian Express' I bought this book hoping I would like it just as much, and also because I was about to go to China for 3 weeks travelling around. I found the book most enjoyable - I like his style - and informative both on Chinese culture and history. I haven't been yet so can't say how true his descriptions of the Chinese people are or, indeed, if things are still the same as when he wrote it in the min-1980's.Sometimes he is a bit repetitive but rarely boring and very amusing at times. In this day of photos, selfies etc etc it is refreshing to read a book which is so descriptive that it was only near the end that I realised I could 'see' China and didn't need any photographs. I highly recommend it. But maybe I will have to edit these comments after having been there myself.

I bought this book prior to taking a trip through China.The book is about Mr Theroux’s long trip through China by train in the 1980s.As ever, Paul Theroux really delivers in this book. His dry, witty style makes even mundane events entertaining. It is a real ‘page-turner’ and I very much enjoyed reading it. I also feel that in spite of the fact that China is a totally different country today compared to the 1980s, the traveller can still take a lot from this book. It surely still ranks up there as one of the best travel books on China.I would recommend this to anybody who likes travel writing, especially those people who have or are planning to visit China.

I am a big Paul Theroux fan and this book does not disappoint. Paul has an amazing ability to capture the essence of train travel and draw you into his experience. I simply love sharing the experience with all it's vivid images, the smells and the people ! I was a little worried that China would not have enough to offer and I might feel the book started to repeat itself but I could not have been further from the truth. Theroux provides a backdrop to all the different cultures of the people of this vast country. He explores their history and their unique environment - shaped by the surrounding landscape and their national identity. Absolutely fascinating and a true journey of exploration. If you are new to Theroux, then this book may be a little heavy at times and perhaps the 'Great Railway Bazaar" would be a better introduction to his style. For a seasoned Theroux reader and indeed for anyone planning a visit to this amazing and, this book is a must !

This book is a light hearted travel book which educated and entertains in a Bryson-esque fashion. I kept imagining Louis Theroux as the person telling the story even though it was actually his father.