Revell of Germany Viking Ship Plastic Model Kit

This is a good solid model. The body comes in two pieces that, if glued solidly down the seam, will hold water well (I used epoxy). I also later filled the bottom with space filling foam since I have it floating in my pond (with the foam in it it does not fill with water in the rain). I did not use the sail since it is anchored in my pond and I don't want the effect of wind on the sail. Just like others have said, if you use the decals for the shields make sure you cut a small hole in the middle (I just painted as I wanted specific color).

A well done model and a pleasure to put together. Vikings, to my knowledge, did not put horns on their helmets nor did they put selfies on their sails. Their graphics were non representational. I web surfed viking boat stuff and thus added oar racks on the deck instead of having them sticking out.

This was my first model ship, and I think it took me about 20 hours of work time to finish. As others have said, the provided sail decal is not the one shown in the picture and indeed looks like a high school mascot - it's a modern-looking (anachronistic) drawing of a viking's head, so I just omitted it. Perhaps you can just paint your own, which was probably the case for the picture shown. The shield decals are a little troublesome as others have said; however, it wasn't nearly as much of an ordeal that others found it to be. Yes, it's true that they probably won't stay on if you applied a lot of shear stress to them, but as long as you're not picking up your ship by the shields or something, you don't need to worry. As I was working on other parts of the ship, I bumped the shields a few times and sometimes the decals would detach a little, but they never came off. Looking at the finished product, I can't tell which shields those were. The plastic parts were generally very good, and none broke. I'd suggest removing them from the racks with an x-acto knife to minimize the risk of breaking anything. Some pieces have a little excess plastic, but it was usually pretty obvious and easy to remedy with an x-acto knife. One thing that caused me to drop probably like 20 F-bombs was gluing the cleats (6 in total) to the ship. These are approximately 4 mm parts that have a 1 mm peg to fit in a peg hole on the side of the ship. It was extremely difficult for me to maneuver the piece into position AND apply pressure to get the piece in the hole - perhaps the peg was a little too big and needed trimming. While you're trying to do this, you also have the glue which is constantly dissolving the plastic as you're trying to do this, so it was very stressful for me (you have to be kinda quick). I couldn't do it, so I gave up on the cleats. These pieces have a big role later though - lines are actually fastened around these cleats, so you need to glue them well if you can because they'll have to sustain the tension from the lines. Since I omitted them, I just glued a knot to the side of the ship instead, and it seemed to work well. The model in the picture doesn't show some of the rigging - there's like 6 more lines in the rear of the ship (which go around the cleats). Also the line from the mast to the bow is different - there's a model line fastening system (don't know what you call it) that I think looks more attractive than in the picture. I thought that I got the right brown paint for the ship, but it looks a lot lighter than the model picture. I say go for the dark brown in the picture. All in all, it was a good experience with some minor difficulties, and I'd buy again from this company.

This was awesome!!! I spent the time putting it together super gluing the tiny parts and painting it intricately so it looked like the photo. I put it on a giant cake made by sonjas bakery in dallas "how to train your dragon theme." I put all the cute characters from the movie in the boat. The cake had water and a bunch of dragons on it. Was the perfect viking boat for his birthday theme... Now he has the boat as a keepsake to always remember the best birthday ever!

The model is beautiful. You can’t go wrong building a Revell model. The instructions were easy enough to complete the project. Took me around 16 hours to get the boat in this stage.

Great model for a fan of Viking ships. I replicated the sail with raw muslin to replace the plastic for a bit more authenticity. And, of course I ditched that ridiculous Viking Head Decal. But the parts are exact and, other than those tiny six cleats, manageable for a guy who's all thumbs. I'll get back to you on all the rigging and knot-tying, too! Punch holes in the shield decals as other have mentioned so that they'll stay put till dry. And, actually I'm going to use a minimum of paint as the brown color of the plastic isn't too far from actual wood.

My dad loves models. His thing is mostly WWII planes , tanks, etc... I thought this might be a good change of pace for him, something different. He loved it. He is a high skill level so this was not difficult for him at all. He had it opened and put together in no time at all. He really enjoyed it.

I got this with in a week, and I was very impressed! My only complaint is that the decal on the sail was different but not enough to knock off a star. The hull is textured to look like the real thing! It all looks incredibly realistic and the designs on the shields are very well done, the bosses on the shields themselves stick out (Inexperienced modelers beware) so you run the potential risk of ripping the decal. But all in all if you know what the heck you're doing, this should be a pleasant build for you. Also!! The sail and yard arm has to be fastened on by string that comes with the kit, so you have to tie it on manually. Since this is the first sailing ship that I've done I glued the yard arm on and left the sail off, it still looks plenty authentic just like that though.

Very good moulding giving a detailed model. Fairly easy to construct. Not really for children. It's a little too complex for most younger children. You will need to buy some plastic glue as well and paints to finish it off. Gluing the shields on the bulwarks is fiddly so you need to take time to get this right. Its best to paint or affix shield transfers before attaching them to the ship. Then just touch up the bits left unpainted so that you can glue them on. The ship is a complete ship, so if you want a waterline model you will need to carve away the part of the hull that would be below the water level. The scale works well with 28mm figures.

Encontré con Amazon lo que estuve buscando por años

sehr schönes Modell und nicht sehr schwierig zum aufbauen

ok

Très beau modèle, beau détail, hyper solide et facile à monter.