10pcs DC Buck Converter

I bought these to power an ESP32 devkit boards. They are a little bit weird if you haven't used this type of board before since you have to modify several solder pads to get the output that you want. In my case I wanted a 3.3V output so I solder bridged the 3.3V output pads and desoldered/split the adjustable voltage enable pads and viola! Perfect 3.33V output. Voltage is stable under load and the ESP32 seems quite happy with the power it is getting. It functions perfectly as advertised and I am happy with it so far. These boards seem very well made with clean, well manufactured PCB's, clean parts installation, clear markings and good soldering throughout. They are small enough to fit easily into tight project spaces and the choice of multiple fixed voltages as well as the option for a variable user set voltage makes these boards very versatile. If you are looking for a small, clean, reliable power source for low power applications I would definitely recommend these boards.

This is a great little switcher, and this is coming from a EE with 40+ years of product development experience, including switching PS design for Burr-Brown (now TI), so I do know something about this‼! Granted, the load regulation is not “awesome”, but is still decent for 95% of applications. No load 5V output is 4.99V, and at 1A it is 4.80V. In case you are worrying about dipping below 4.75V (TTL/USB…), use adjustable mode, and set the output to 5.20V, and you’ll be fine. If you want perfect, go and spend $30-$100 apiece for an industrial switcher… which will be much larger in size. This one is <$2 per board, so, let’s all be sensible when passing judgment. I do like the decent efficiency, important if running on batteries. Running 12V input, and 5V output, it barely gets warm at 1A (chip at ~40C with spot IR). I am running a Raspberry Pi on it, with a RAK Gateway, along with an external Cellular Hotspot. No issues what so ever. Some of the equipment presents 1.5A-2A fast peak loads, and this switcher handles it just fine. Dropout voltage is about 0.8V, meaning you need minimum of 5.8V on the input to get 5V on the output. Below this the supply tracks the input, modulated by the load line imperfection. I temperature tested it in the oven, at 60C ambient to simulate the inside of the outdoor case in the summer Sun, and it was OK, but you may want to mount it on a metal slab with conductive adhesive tape to be safe, as the junction approaches 125C. Interestingly, the output voltage di d not move more than few mV at 60C. It is interesting to note that this switcher has no issues feeding another chained switcher: I also needed 3.8V, but my system could not run this switcher of the 12V, for system reasons that are beyond the scope here. I found that chaining them works fine, with no need for additional caps in between. This was a surprise to me. I tried to chain 4 of them, just for fun, and it worked OK too. I read some of the comments: If you can’t cut a trace to disable the default mode, you should not be playing with this. This is clearly spelled out in the Amazon listing. To me, it took an Exacto-knife, and 10 seconds. Granted, the module size is tiny (which is the whole idea), so you may need some magnification, depending on your age. I used a bino-microscope, but could have done without if I had to. Remember – this is a <$2 module. As a value it is absolutely awesome. The design is average in my estimation, but consistent with low price, and will work for you. As my vote, I purchased another 10 for my lab. That should tell you what you need to know.

Great little buck converters. They worked fine. I got these because of the size, ajustibility, and the number in the package. I bought some male header pins separately to solder on. They work great with the pins!

I've purchased about 20 of these now. They are realtly nice for controlling voltages higher than the microcontroller can tolerate. I use these to build small solar power displays with lights, fans, servos and motors. Using their enable pin, these buck converters allow a 3.3 micro to control and downregulate 12-14 volts of power to individual devices without having to separately add a switch, mosfet, or relay. The description of the device however suggests this is done through a pullup resistor. When I read this I thought I could simply overcome a (10k?) pullup resistor with the GPIO output from a micro sourced to ground and the device would shut off. This is not how they work. After a bit of playing, it's evident that there is a solder bridge near the enable pin that needs to be removed (cut or wicked away) before the enable pin can be used. If you simply apply ground to the enable pin it's a dead short and will quickly destroy the device and release the magic blue smoke. Once the solder bridge is cut, there is no pullup or pulldown resistor on the circuit. The voltage will float and act erratically. Once connected to the microcontroller it works perfectly though. This is a really nice feature at this price point and has saved me quite a bit of time wiring switches through other mechanisms. Removing the other solder bridge disconnects the potentiometer that adjusts the voltage just like the description says. The device will then require a new solder bridge on the back side to set the voltage. These pads are quite small and somewhat difficult to manage but it can be done. The potentiometers are a bit wonky and setting a perfect output voltage is a little tricky. From a power-saving standpoint, the device consumes virtually nothing when the enable pin is held low. My DMM reads 1.8 microamps--this is a huge plus over some other systems I have used. Running just an LED for testing purposes (4 mA), the device is 87% efficient. Using a 10 ohm resistor at 5.08v (500 mA) the voltage sags to 5.04 and the efficiency is 76%. Both of these were performed using an input voltage of 7v, efficiency is likely worse at higher voltages. Overall these work well for my purposes. The product description could have been clearer and had more of the details I included in this review.

These are working great on projects, changing the voltage can be a little bit tricky, but they work really well

Utilisé pour alimenter une carte DMX sans-fil en 5 volts a partir d'une source 12 volts continue.

Pour des projets DIY type arduino, le format est génial et il n'a pas l'air de chauffer. Juste une remarque, je me lance dans l'élétronique et je ne comprends pas bien le fonctionnement de la carte. Explication en anglais très bien faite mais j'ai un doute sur la méthodologie pour fixer le voltage: Il faut souder les plots sur le voltage désiré et couper celui de la patte "ADJ" ?? Sinon merci encore, super produit.

Product can’t handle 20 volts!!! 19.5 v cooks them, actual max voltage is 16 volts.