Brownells Aluma-Hyde II Epoxy Based Firearm Finish Spray Coating Protection Paint, Aerosol Can, 12 oz. (340g) Earth Brown

I've used the previous iteration of Aluma-Hyde with good results, so picking this was a no brainer. I wiped down my shotgun barrel and the metal part on the hand guard with several passes of acetone. Once dry, I hung the barrel up in the back yard and started spraying. It covers VERY well, not needing my paint at all. I then hung it in a spare room for two weeks to let it fully cure. It looks spectacular and should protect against rust. A week or two later I sprayed a .22 pistol slide with it and got some clumping. I shook it well, so I'm guessing it had to do with the nozzle being partially blocked from when I painted the shotgun barrel. Regardless, the finish still came out smooth. The next test is durability. The original formula is durable so I expect this one will be as well. If not, I'll edit this review. For now, it is a winner!

Great product, follow the application instructions and it looks great.

I paint stuff all the time. Guns, cars, patio furniture. I have Big expensive air setups, little cheap air brush kits, have used duracoat, cerakote, krylon, Rust-Oleum in cans. But I was looking to get a can of something "better" for a cheap gun frame. Idk about the durability or quality of this paint because the can and nozzle don't work. Followed all directions on can exactly. Here's what happens. Can starts off spraying with some sputtering for a few seconds then it sprays a nice beautiful mist, then the mist randomly starts getting thicker and sputters out again ruining my frame. Well it ruined what I was trying to do, the frame is soaking in a stripper right now. The can was shaken for no less than 5 min. Can was warm when applying as per directions. It's just worthless. If I wanted a short cut a can of krylon would have done me better. Update: I have a lot of junk laying around and decided to try this on some stuff that I don't care about. What I noticed throughout the process is that using 220 micro grit paper to prep the surface is essential for the strongest bond. Normally with duracoat or kylon I use a 400 and it's perfect for a strong bond. With this stuff it is not. That being said, krylon is still stronger in my opinion. I oven cured the brownells for 2 hours at about 180-200 degrees on each surface prepped with different grits. Let all sit for 2 days then scratch tested them. On all of them the scratches were tearing of flakes of paint. I do not have this issue with kryon. The other big issue was the lack of consistency with the spray. As it went on really uneven and had these splatters and splotches. I still have that issue but in the process of oven curing, it smoothed out a little bit. Still not as good as cheaper options. So i still conclude that your should just use krylon. Do all your normal prep; sand, degrease by cleaning then low temp in oven to draw out more oil then hit with brake cleaner, paint with matte krylon (dries really fast between coats), oven cure for a few hours or air cure for a few days, finish with fast drying krylon matte clear coat. I promise you will have a better result than this over priced stuff.

This is my third time purchasing Brownells Aluma-Hyde II, and I have been very happy with the results. It sprays evenly and blends well when applying multiple light coats. I used the Flat Dark Earth color on a pistol slide to match a PSA lower, and while it was not an exact match, the color was reasonably close and looked great once assembled. It has worked very well on the metal firearm parts I have painted. I normally bake the parts in my oven after spraying to speed up the curing process, and the finished coating has been tough and durable. Just make sure the parts are completely disassembled, properly cleaned, and degreased before applying it. The coverage is excellent. I have not used an entire can on one project, but I believe one can could easily cover at least two completely disassembled AR-style rifles when applied correctly. I have not had any significant leakage problems, although cleaning the nozzle and storing the can upright after use is important. Considering the amount of coverage, the quality of the color, and the durability of the finished coating, I think it is a very good value for the money. I will definitely continue buying it for future projects.

Holds up very well

A very good product

Order some not so rusty 20rd mags for $19 each for the RAK308. Little sand blasting and carb cleaner turned out nice. FYI I got these stenciles cause they are cheap but worked well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GT92LS9L?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

It’s a great product through and through. However it is not easy to use. Please consider watching some of the brownells prep and application videos. To do this right it’s a lot of meticulous work and honestly takes practice. Color accuracy is on par with Magpul od green. Paint is thick and requires constant shaking. Thickness and texture depends on spray technique and your level of patience. You have options of curing let it sit or bake it. Don’t be upset with yourself if you mess up along the way. Even if you sprayed it thick and cured it right if your surface prep wasn’t the best it will scratch. However if prep, sprayed and cured correctly it’s significantly sturdier and more scratch resistant than regular spray paint, but it is not cerakote so take it easy cowboy. Enjoy the process have fun.