TRQFront Strut & Coil Spring Assembly Set Driver & Passenger Sides Compatible with 13-18 Toyota Avalon

I returned these only because front sits too low. My car is 2014 Hyundai Equus (Curb weight 4500+ lbs). These struts will work on an Equus, except that front sits less than 1" below fender. And because the shocks are compressed more than they normally would be on a 09 - 14 Genesis sedan (3.8 or 4.6, 3800lbs ~ 4000lbs), the rider is a stiffer than what I was looking for. I returned these only because the front sits a little too low for me, but this could totally work out perfectly for someone else looking for Equus' air suspension conversion. I went with G80's shocks, from TRQ, the part number is SCA43437.

The front suspension,plugs wires and now the back shocks all TRQ and fit and work perfectly on my 2004 forester!

These were a perfect replacement for my Model 3. Easy to install and the car feels smooth while driving with them

Update 5/25: Yeah - they failed prematurely. Driver's side strut has failed, chinesium metal is imploding. I would recommend avoiding this brand at all costs - huge PITA to now have to redo all that work. Absolutely cannot recommend this chinese rubbish. There are other (negative) reviews up here with pics of the upper mount, same thing happened to mine - mounting bolt wallowed out the the hole in the plate, which allowed the strut to shift (changing alignment repeatedly), which also wrecked the lower control arms and the tires.Original review: Installed on son's 2007 Mazda 5 @ 130K. Vast improvement over the (original/failed) struts. Ran into 2 installation issues: 1) bottom flange/bolt loop on LH was bent/out of alignment - didn't figure this out until we had it almost seated in the steering knuckle. Pulled it back out, straightened it and it went in; 2) Brake line clamp bracket was a little too tight, could not get the clips reinstalled. We'll sort this out later. I did have to use my 10-lb sledge and plenty of penetrating oil to pound the originals out of the steering knuckles, and we sanded/cleaned the steering knuckles and greased liberally to get the new ones in.Installed KYBs on the back, but for the price these (at least initially) have made a huge improvement. Decision process was much like previous reviewer’s; was considering KYB strut assemblies but many reviews mentioned defective/noisy upper strut bearings; so far these TRQs are making no noise and no issues with upper bearings. Did not measure the ride height, but allegedly these strut assemblies use the same diameter spring (thus presumably similar spring characteristics) as the OEMs. I will update if they fail prematurely, but so far so good. I'm just an experienced shade-tree mechanic; several good YT vids showing replacement procedure. Overall the car rides like new. Recommend if this is your price point (vice Mazda parts).

If you want to skip to the summary at the end of this review, that's fine.I'm going to review these as someone with 0 car knowledge, that used Reddit and Youtube to buy these quick struts and install them.My struts were shot. Every bump I hit I could feel hitting my frame. all of my tires were cupping and becoming bumpy. It felt super sketchy. So much tire noise. I didn't have enough money to go to a mechanic to get them replaced. I don't know anything about "compressing" the coil or spring or whatever in a strut, so I couldn't buy a better quality one that I would have to assemble myself...so quick struts already assembled was my only option.Installation with 0 car knowledge took me a 2-3 hours. Jack up the car with a floor jack, put on jack stands, take the wheels off. And undo 4 bolts? Take out the strut carefully. Tight fit. Really annoying, but doable.Important and will save you some hassle: if you don't know anything about cars, the tie rod that you have to put into the struts can be a bit of a pain to get in the hole. What I didn't know was that the suspension is connected on both sides, so it's pretty much impossible to do without jacking up both sides. Jack up one side, put a jack stand. Take the floor jack to the other front side, jack it up, put another jack stand. Tie Rods are still a pain to get aligned in the struts, but either way, save yourself some time and hassle...you have to have both sides jacked up at the same time or the tie rod will be too high to reach the hole in the struts.Also important for 2016 Kia Fortes: To get the struts out, and install the new ones, you have to remove the windshield wipers, and the windshield wiper tray thing. Not difficult at all. Windshield wipers have two plastic circles, you pop out, and then undo the bolts. The tray has 4 plastic push in little things. You push in the tiny circle in the middle of them, and then pop them out. Then you take the rubber cap off of the top of the struts. Don't fully undo the nuts on those, or else the strut will drop on the axle. Let taking those off be the last thing you do.After you get it set, put the 4 bolts or whatever back on. Put your tires back on, and you're in business.Review of these struts:Going from what felt like 0 strut power to these, feels so incredibly nice. I forgot what suspension felt like. Cut down on so much car noise. I can actually feel them working. Downside: They do make a bit of a squeaky sound when you hit a bump or pothole. I can live with the sometimes squeaky sound, knowing that they are functional, working, easy to install, and cheap on my wallet. I'm a week in and no complaints, everything feels safe. I got an alignment and they inspected my car and didn't say anything negative about my shock installation.After installation, go get a wheel alignment from a shop for $100 or so. Between the shocks, struts, tires, and alignment I paid $800 in total. The shop quoted me at $2,300 for everything. Would do again myself. Would buy again.

Items came o ntime as described